Day 1

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 2:45 p.m. in the lobby of the Taj Hari Mahal hotel in Jodhpur. Please arrive dressed in comfortable clothes and walking shoes.

Mehrangarh Fort Walk & Market Tour 2 Hours

After gathering at our hotel, ideally located near the best of Jodhpur, we strike out for the famed Mehrangarh Fort. Perched on a steep hill and towering 400 feet over the city, this magnificent fortress—built by the Mandore rule Rao Jodha—dates from the 15th century. Inside, several lavish palaces pay testament to India’s remarkable architecture and design, and spectacular rooms and halls give you a unique look into Rajasthan’s royal past. From the fortress walls, gaze out over the “Blue City,” as Jodhpur is called. The name comes from its indigo-washed houses—the beautiful splashes of sapphire provide a stunning contrast to the warm desert surroundings.

From Mehrangarh we descend the steep hillside (watch your footing!) to visit Jodhpur’s lively Sardar market. India’s marketplaces are vibrant, colorful and chaotic. Filled with every imaginable thing to buy and all manner of humanity, this setting is sure to stimulate your senses— and perhaps overwhelm them. Thick bustling crowds, often erratic rickshaw drivers, street food carts and the occasional cow meandering along the road are the norm. Browse the stalls selling exotic spices and goods, and be prepared to meet a slew of characters, from the purposeful holy man to the persistent boy eager to sell you a rug from his uncle’s shop to the curious girl who wants to chat.

If you’d prefer a more relaxed day, skip the market and head to the hotel pool, visit the spa or wander the gardens. (Spa treatments are not included in the trip price.) This evening we convene for a cocktail reception before sitting down to our first meal together.

Lodging: Taj Hari Mahal

Day 2

Salawas Route 32 Miles with Shuttle
Shorter Option: 23 Miles with Shuttle
Longer Option: 45 Miles

Begin the day with a hearty breakfast at the hotel. After your Trip Leaders fit your bike and give a brief demonstration of biking techniques and safety, set off on today’s culturally packed route through the busy outskirts of Jodhpur and into the quiet out-of-the-way villages of the Thar Desert. On your way out of town, you’re likely to find yourself among local riders, scooters and rickshaws on their morning commutes. If it’s been a good monsoon season, you’ll soon arrive at a small lake frequented by birds and other wildlife such as red deer and blue bulls. You may want to cool off in the shade with some water and enjoy the scenery.

Farther along we stop to meet a family of artisans who use a traditional block method to print Rajasthani patterns on textiles. Sit back, relax and watch the demonstration of this ages-old art form. Afterward jump back on your bike and make your way to our next destination, a dhurrie carpet cooperative where we visit the Roop Raj family. Following a scrumptious lunch of regional fare under a canopy, we are shown traditional weaving techniques. Roo Pai, the head of the family, is famous for his fine craftsmanship; his carpets have been purchased by the likes of Prince Charles and Richard Gere.

The last leg of today’s journey returns you to Jodhpur. Biking in and around the city can be chaotic and smoggy, so you may prefer to skip this part of the ride and instead shuttle into town to do some shopping or back to the hotel for maximum pool time. We return to the city tonight for an indulgent dinner.

Lodging: Taj Hari Mahal

Day 3

Shuttle to Manvar Resort 2 Hours
Manvar Loop 44 Miles
Shorter Option: 15 Miles with Shuttle
Jeep Ride to Desert Camp 45 Minutes
Sunset Camel Ride 1 Hour

This morning we shuttle to the Manvar Resort, nestled between the cities of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer in the heart of Rajasthan’s sand dunes. Then saddle up for today’s stunning ride on traffic-free roads past the rolling dunes and green farms around Manvar. En route, stop at a school to meet the students. In their excitement to meet you (an exotic foreigner!), rural children tend to either be incredibly shy or a bit overly exuberant. Don’t be surprised if they reach out to touch you or want to inspect your bike. Return to the resort to linger over lunch, take a dip in the pool and kick back in the shade.

This afternoon we travel by jeep up and over dunes on an exhilarating ride to a remote desert camp. Here, at this permanent collection of tents (rustic and sparsely furnished but each with its own full bathroom), you’ll gain special insight into India’s camel-trader past. Come evening, follow in the centuries-old footsteps of desert merchants by climbing atop a camel and heading west across the shifting sand. After viewing a brilliant sunset, our lumbering “ships of the desert” carry us back to camp for a night under the stars.

Though miles from urban life, you’ll be surprised how noisy the desert can be. Nomadic camel traders and their animals, and desert festival revelers can create quite the cacophony—even the peacocks like to have their say. We strive to keep our camp as serene as possible, but it’s important to remember that it’s all part of the colorful Indian experience. Tonight enjoy a dinner accompanied by a performance of regional music.

Lodging: Manvar Desert Camp

Day 4

Shuttle to Pali 3 Hours
Narlai Route 38 Miles
Shorter Option: 25 Miles with Shuttle

After making our way out of the dunes by jeep, we head to the ancient trade town of Pali to begin today’s ride. Strike out on your bike from Pali’s hill-perched Druga temple, following a narrow dirt road across a dam, where the terrain opens up into a vast fertile floodplain. We lunch at a local family’s home and enjoy fresh homemade food and freshly squeezed lime soda. Look for the Aravalli Hills in the distance—they’re a hint of the dramatic landscape that’s to come. It’s interesting to note that these hills once rivaled the Himalayas in their impressive rise as massive “fold mountains” (peaks created by converging tectonic plates), but they have since been whittled into rolling knolls by millions of years of erosion.

Arriving in the bustling town of Narlai at the base of the hills, settle into the Rawla Narlai hotel, a 17th-century hunting lodge (formerly belonging to the Maharaj of Jodhpur), conveniently situated in the center of town. In the shadow of Elephant Mountain, Narlai lies at the epicenter of a region rich with historic temples—the surrounding area lays claim to over 500! This charming historic hotel may be a little rough around the edges—it’s remote enough to be subject to the occasional loss of power—but its location more than makes up for it. Feeling tired after today’s long ride? Consider a relaxing neck massage before dinner as soothing sitar music plays in the background. Our meal tonight is on the terrace, where a thali (plate) of regional specialties may include rice, dhal, chapati, papad and local vegetables.

Lodging: Rawla Narlai Hotel

Day 5

Optional Activities
Aravalli Mountains & Kumbhalgarh Fort Route 33 Miles with Shuttle
Shorter Option: 23 Miles with Shuttle
Optional Narlai Hiking Routes 1–3 Hours

Today a multitude of options awaits. If you’re in the mood to bike, you can tackle one of the trip’s most memorable routes, which leads to the magnificent Kumbhalgarh Fort. Pedaling along the rolling Aravalli Hills, pass through lush open valleys, protected forests (home to monkeys and peacocks) and tiny villages where you share the road with camel herds, water buffalo, goats and cows. With sweet-smelling fields of sugarcane and the shade of mango trees, this fascinating corner of Rajasthan is a stark contrast to the Jodhpur desert.

We lunch at the mountain retreat of Aohdi before continuing to Kumbhalgarh Fort, visible on a rise in the distance. Built by the Mewar ruler Rana Kumbha in the 15th century, the fort looms over the region at such a height that faraway sand dunes can be seen from its high walls. Take time to explore this impressive feat of engineering: it houses more than 350 temples and is enclosed by an immense outer wall that stretches more than 22 miles.

Though today’s ride is a highlight, you may prefer to give your pedals a rest. If so, there are plenty of hiking opportunities around Narlai. For fantastic panoramic views, make the short trek to the top of Elephant Hill at sunrise or sunset. Another hiking route leads you to a nearby village where you can get a taste of daily life in India’s remote hill region.

Feel like staying closer to home? Simply step out the door of the hotel to explore town or while away the hours poolside.

Lodging: Rawla Narlai Hotel

Day 6

Ranakpur & Delwara Route 60 Miles with Shuttle
Shorter Option: Ranakpur 40 Miles with Shuttle

Fuel up with breakfast to prepare for our tough and rewarding ride to Ranakpur and on to Delwara. Beginning in Narlai, follow flat roads through quaint villages and past beautiful temples. You may want to take a peek at the colorful marigold market along the way. In Ranakpur, visit the breathtaking Jain temple housing 1,400 intricately carved marble pillars dating from the 14th century. Jainism, or Jain Dharma, is an ancient Indian religion that dates back more than 2,900 years. It is based on a belief in the equality of all life, a nonviolent self-aware existence and the theory of karma. To this day Jainism is an integral part of Indian culture.

Ranakpur offers insight into contemporary religious practices in India. For Westerners who are often accustomed to the hushed tones and serenity of places of worship, temples in India can seem frenetic. Our first sense of Ranakpur will be without the crowds, as we’ve made arrangements with the head priest to be escorted through the temple before it opens to the public. While viewing the main and small temples, take in the impressive stonework of the pillars, the various angles of morning light shining into the temple and the cool marble on your bare feet. Afterward we join the priest for a reverential chant before departing. This rare behind-the-scenes experience is something you won’t soon forget.

A short shuttle ride spares your legs from an arduous climb, but soon you’re back on your bike, passing camel-drawn carts as you spin through villages, and past water wheels and ancient temples. Just outside the city of Delwara—an important stop on Rajasthan’s trade route as it protects one of the few passes through the steep terrain into Udaipur’s tropical valley—hop in the van to avoid the busy roads into town. We arrive at Devi Garh Palace, a lavish palace-turned-luxury-hotel and our home for the next two nights. After a long day in the saddle, you may decide to head straight to the spa (not included in trip price). If not, settle into your elegantly adorned suite and later enjoy dinner at your leisure.

Lodging: Devi Garh Palace

Day 7

Optional Delwara Route 26 Miles
Optional Activities (including walking, swimming, yoga & horseback riding*)

Enjoy spending this layover day however you wish. If you’d like to indulge in some R & R at the hotel, the Devi Garh Palace offers just about everything you can imagine. Take a dip in the heated pool, soothe your muscles in the whirlpool tub or with a spa treatment, or kick back in your suite, perhaps picking up a good book from the hotel’s library. Or get outside to play croquet, hike or take part in a yoga class. Up for something a bit more exotic? Explore the countryside on one of the Devi Garh’s resident camels, horses or elephants! (*Please note that recreational activities at the hotel are not included in the trip price.)

A walking tour with a local named Acktar is another great option. Get an up-close-and-personal experience of a Delwara village as you accompany him to local temples and family homes. Of course, if you have a few more climbs left in your legs, you can always head out from the hotel on your bike for one of several loop rides through small hamlets and gently rolling farm country.
Before dinner tonight we whet our appetites with a cooking class led by one of the hotel restaurant’s esteemed chefs. Learn to prepare deep-fried spinach leaves, fresh homemade sauces, and fish and chicken dishes that melt in your mouth. On the hotel’s terrace we enjoy our culinary creations by the warmth of flickering firelight.

Lodging: Devi Garh Palace

Day 8

Udaipur Lakes Route 21 Miles with Shuttle

Delight in more beautiful scenery during today’s ride to Udaipur, our trip’s final destination and the unrivaled “City of Sunrise.” If you fall in love with Udaipur, you’re not alone: Travel + Leisure readers recently named it the World’s Best City.

Our breathtaking route takes you alongside picturesque Tiger Lake (keep on the lookout for monkeys!), through verdant farmland and past intricately adorned temples into the heart of the rocky Aravalli Hills. On the final stretch, you’ll likely come across cattle and water buffalo along tree-lined roads leading into Udaipur. Despite centuries of warfare with a host of invading armies, Udaipur remained unconquered until the British takeover of India in the early 19th century. As a result, its pristine white palaces, narrow winding streets and splendid temples are some of India’s most prized landmarks.

Retire your bike on the shore of Lake Fateh Sagar, where we enjoy a tasty picnic lunch before shuttling to our final hotel of the trip, Oberoi Udaivilas, ranked among the world’s top ten hotels by Travel + Leisure.

This evening venture into Udaipur for dinner on your own and perhaps a night on the town. Udaipur offers a variety of dining options, including many romantic rooftop restaurants.

Lodging: Oberoi Udaivilas

Day 9

Udaipur Loop 30 Miles
Shorter Option: 15 Miles with Shuttle

After a week’s worth of incredible rides, today you can log a few more two-wheeled miles or cool down and explore Udaipur. If you’d like to bike, make your way out of the city and across the rugged hills to the remote village of Piplya. This challenging ride starts with flat sections leaving town, a good warm-up for the tough climbs ahead in the mountains surrounding Udaipur.

You’re rewarded for your efforts with some of the most beautiful vistas of the trip. Pedal along high ridgelines that lead to a scenic picnic spot overlooking the valley. After taking in the view while eating your lunch, continue past the Mother of Goddess Temple to Piplya. The village’s inhabitants belong to a tribal group called the Bhils, and we learn about their life and distinctive culture from our local guide, Vikrum.

At some point today you’ll want to spend some time discovering Udaipur, a fantastic place for sightseeing and shopping. And by now you’re sure to be an old hand at travel in India, comfortable exploring via rickshaw or practicing your new Hindi words as you bargain with local merchants. Be sure to stop by the picture-perfect City Palace, Monsoon Palace and Jagdish Temple. Several interesting museums are worth visiting, or you may want to take an afternoon boat ride on one of the city’s four spectacular lakes, which have earned it the unofficial title of “Venice of the East.”

We reconvene tonight to share stories of our adventures and to celebrate our journey through India with a festive farewell dinner.

Lodging: Oberoi Udaivilas

Day 10

Morning Shuttles to Udaipur Airport 30 Minutes

Savor a leisurely morning at the Oberoi Udaivilas, perhaps taking a stroll along the lake or checking out another one of Udaipur’s majestic sites. Our trip concludes late-morning at the hotel. Your leaders will make arrangements for transportation to the Udaipur airport.