Day 1

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 9:30 a.m. at the Marrakech train station. Please arrive with a daypack containing your biking clothes. See ―Arriving & Departing‖ for additional logistics information.

Shuttle to Tamesloht 45 Minutes
Walking Tour of Tamesloht & Walk to Zaouia 1½ Hours
Shuttle to Le Relais du Lac 30 Minutes
Gorges d’Ouirgane Biking Route 27 Miles
Shorter Options: 11 & 15 Miles
Shuttle to Ouirgane 1 Hour

Welcome to Morocco! After meeting in Marrakech, we shuttle to Tamesloht, a formerly affluent 16th-century village surrounded by olive groves. At one time this small hamlet was one of the main olive oil producers in the region and was known for its agricultural activities and crafts. Tamesloht is also home to a zaouia (holy site), where we visit a riad (a traditional Moroccan home surrounding a central courtyard, intricately decorated with carvings, tiles and beautifully inlaid wood).The riad belongs to Moulay Hafid, (moulay is an honorific title given to Moroccans who are the descendants of the Prophet Mohammed). Our local guide Lionel guides us through this holy site and introduces us to Muslim religion and culture. After the tour, we sit down for a refreshing cup of mint tea and more insight from Lionel.

Following our visit, we shuttle to Le Relais du Lac for a meal of regional specialties with spectacular views of the lake and the Atlas Mountains. After lunch, change into your biking gear and gather for a bike fitting and talk on riding techniques and safety given by your leaders. Then head out along a peaceful and lightly trafficked route to the base of the Gorges d’Ouirgane. Spin through the rolling countryside and into the High Atlas Mountains, where the scenery changes with every turn. Just as the road becomes steeper and narrower, we hitch a ride in the van for a breathtaking shuttle ride over the gorge into the Ouirgane Valley.

Our final destination is Domaine de la Roseraie, a charming hotel surrounded by a battlement of mountains and landscaped with fragrant rose gardens. Savor a stroll on the grounds or a dip in the pool before sitting down to a tasty dinner. Lodging: Domaine de la Roseraie

Day 2

Berber Village Walking Loop 8 Miles
Shorter Option: 4 Miles

Today we hike with a local guide through the Imlil Valley to a Berber village accessible only by foot or mule. Our route crosses a river and follows narrow walled paths through olive groves. Along the way, enjoy views of the blue-gray hills in the east and the broad river valley crosshatched with irrigation canals. Donkeys, goats and pedestrians are the sole traffic we’ll likely encounter as we make our way from one earthen-baked village to the next, stopping for lunch en route. Our path leads uphill to a colorful hamlet, where we’re welcomed into the home of a local family. Reclining on cushions, we sip mint tea before sharing a traditional lunch including a fresh tagine, couscous, freshly baked bread, and locally grown nuts and olives.

On your way back to the hotel, take in the lovely landscape of jagged snowcapped crests, clustered hamlets on steep slopes, and an agricultural mosaic of wheat, clover and onion fields. (The valley’s small Berber town of Imlil, set in the western High Atlas Mountains at 5,709 feet and known as Morocco’s ―Little Chamonix,‖ is the country’s center of alpine tourism. It is used as base camp for attempts to summit Jebel Toubkal, Morocco’s highest peak at 13,665 feet.)

This evening before dinner, we’re treated to music and dance by local villagers beside the swimming pool. Then we follow candles and fire torches through the rose garden to the hotel restaurant, where you’ll dine in a peaceful Moroccan setting. Lodging: Domaine de La Roseraie

Day 3

Shuttle to Amizmiz 2 Hours
Old Kasbah Biking Route 17 Miles
Longer Option: Across the Plains 36 Miles
Shuttle to Essaouira 2 Hours
Essaouira Walking Tour 1½ Hours

Bidding farewell to the mountains, we shuttle westward across Morocco’s broad coastal plain. Outside the town of Amizmiz, jump on your bike and spin toward the port city of Essaouira. Today’s mellow stretch across the flat plains allows you to save your legs for tomorrow’s rolling hills and offers amazing views of the Atlas Mountains. During the ride, you may notice mounds that resemble giant loaves of bread dotting the landscape. These structures are actually huge piles of wheat that have been covered in mud to prevent the wind from blowing them away—the perfect substitute for a barn in this region with so few trees.

The plains provide a unique transition between the mountains and the sea, and as we approach the Atlantic, you’ll begin to see and feel a distinct change in the environment. The gently rolling hills, the sea breeze and the whitewashed houses are a stark contrast to the peaks, desert and kasbahs we left behind.

The town of Chichaoua appears just in time for your midday meal: grab whatever tempts you, whether it’s an onion crepe, a tagine, omelet or french fries. We shuttle the last stretch to Essaouira, originally a 16th-century Portuguese stronghold called Mogador, ―the Prince’s City.‖ In ancient times this area was the haunt of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, who came to trade perfumes, silk and spices for ostrich feathers and gold. Romans dubbed this site and the island across the bay ―the Purple Islands,‖ thanks to the purple dye extracted from local snails and used to color emperors’ robes. Essaouira’s medina has been a World Heritage site since 2001. The name Essaouira is thought to have derived from tssouira, the Arabic word for ―picture,‖ after an 18th-century sultan exclaimed, ―Show me that precious picture!‖ while studying plans for the town’s port.

Our local guide Hassan leads us on a stroll within Essaouira’s crenellated ramparts, revealing narrow streets crowded with whitewashed houses trimmed with cheery blue doors and window frames. Once a favored hangout of Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens, Essaouira has a wonderfully easygoing feel, which you’ll discover on our sunset walking tour from the cannon-studded city walls to the quayside. Perhaps a piece of handcrafted silver jewelry or a finely woven carpet will catch your eye in one of the shops. Be sure to check out the wood-carver’s souk, where skilled woodworkers busily carve objects from thuja, a resinous chestnut-colored wood. The resulting pieces, such as tables, cabinets and chessboards, are often inlaid with mother of pearl, ebony and bits of silver.
Our home for the next two nights is the distinctive L’Heure Bleue Palais, which welcomes us with uniquely decorated guest rooms and a heated rooftop swimming pool with stellar views of the city and port. If you’d like to try one of Morocco’s oldest traditions, consider the hotel’s hammam, a traditional Moroccan bathhouse. This evening we dine on delicious French-Moroccan cuisine at lively Café Taros. Lodging: L’Heure Bleue Palais

Day 4

Shuttle to Ait Iddir 45 Minutes
Sidi Kaouki Biking Route 13 Miles
Longer Option: Essaouira 28 Miles
Beach Walk or Camel Ride 1½ Hours

This morning head out across undulating terrain draped with wheat fields and speckled with olive groves and stumpy argan trees. Don’t be surprised if you observe camels and donkeys working in the fields or walking through an argan tree forest! Enjoy views of the coast before finally arriving at the seaside village of Moulay Bouzerqtoune and the stunning Sidi Kaouki beach, a favorite windsurfing spot. (Be prepared for a headwind on the way there—and a wonderful tailwind on the way back.) You’ll get a kick out of the sight of tree-climbing goats, often observed foraging for fruit in the highest branches of les arganiers (French for ―argan trees‖). We sit down to a seafood lunch at a well-known family-run restaurant in the village.

Ever wanted to ride a camel? Now’s your chance! Climb aboard and experience a unique form of transportation along the beach and through the dunes. If this isn’t your cup of tea, opt for a relaxing stroll by the ocean, noting the beautifully colored, polished stones scattered across the sand. Off in the distance, you’ll see Mogador, an uninhabited island with wildlife preserve and Portuguese fortress ruins.

Essaouira is the ideal place to explore the traditional markets and shops in search of the perfect token. The town’s eclectic populace—from ultra-traditionally dressed women who only rarely show even their hands to young hip beach bums who practically show it all—is indicative of its tolerance of diverse styles and beliefs. Compared to many cities in Morocco, Essaouira is more laid back. It often lacks the hordes of ―guides‖ vying to offer you their services or the merchants beckoning you into their shops, which makes wandering its market streets a more enjoyable experience.

Back at the hotel, relax before dinner. If you’re looking for a bit of authentic Moroccan adornment, a local artist can decorate your skin with henna tattoos—don’t worry, they’re just temporary! Tonight we dine by candlelight in a private dining room at the hotel. Lodging: L’Heure Bleue Palais

Day 5

Shuttle to El Had du Drâa 45 Minutes
Oasis Hike 5 Miles
Shuttle to Val d’Argan 30 Minutes
Shuttle to Outskirts of Marrakech 2 Hours
Optional Kasbah Agafay Biking Route 17 Miles

We explore the landscape on foot today with a great hike from the coast into the beautiful countryside. The trek ends at a spring-fed oasis—one of the most verdant spots along the Atlantic coast, where a variety of vegetables and fruits are grown. By now you’ll have certainly worked up an appetite for our delicious lunch of Moroccan specialties at Les Domaines du Val d’Argan winery. Afterward, we shuttle to the outskirts of Marrakech, where you have two options for the afternoon. If you missed your bike today, head out on a ride through rural farmland and meet up with the rest of the group later at tonight’s hotel. If you’re interested in relaxing, you can shuttle directly to our luxurious hilltop abode, Kasbah Agafay. Spend the afternoon by the pool, at the spa or in the on-site hammam. (Spa treatments are not included in the trip price.)

Tonight we celebrate our adventure over a great meal at the hotel. Lodging: Kasbah Agafay

Day 6

Shuttle to Marrakech 45 Minutes
Marrakech Walking Tour 2½ Hours

After an early breakfast, we shuttle to Medersa Ben Youssef (a Koranic school) in Marrakech’s medina, or old Arabic city—a World Heritage site—where we join our local guide for a walk. We wander the labyrinthine lanes and alleyways of the city’s souk (marketplace), where colorful textiles, carpets, leather goods, brass and ironwork, musical instruments, jewelry, pottery and a mind-boggling array of potions, powders, spices and perfumes are hawked amid a din of banter and bargaining. A highlight is the D’jemâa el Fna (Place of the Dead), Marrakech’s sprawling central square. Step into the ancient gathering place and enter another world, an exotic and dizzying constellation of snake charmers, soothsayers, herbalists, storytellers, musicians, scribes, men in tasseled fezzes and adolescent acrobats.

Our trip ends after a light lunch on the square.