Day 1

On the first day of the trip, one of your Backroads Trip Leaders will meet you in Bangkok, Thailand, in the lobby of the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, between 3:30 and 5 a.m. (Your Trip Consultant will contact you by e-mail approximately 30 days before the trip starts with the exact meeting time.)

Flight to Paro, Bhutan 4 Hours (includes meal en route & a possible stop in Calcutta, Dhaka or Bagdogra)
Lower Paro Valley Hike 3.2 Miles (300-foot elevation gain; 500-foot elevation loss)

After meeting, your Backroads Trip Leader escorts the group to the Druk Air ticket counter at Bangkok’s international airport for the flight to Paro, Bhutan, where our adventure begins. After landing it’s a 20-minute drive to the five-star Uma Paro hotel, our home for the night. We meet our local guide for the trip, Namgay Tshering, a gracious host and invaluable resource. Namgay comes from a typically modest Bhutanese background, but his world travels have given him a unique perspective on his country.
Keep in mind that although Bhutan is a champion of progressive issues such as increased democratization and wildlife preservation, the Bhutanese live a largely simple, agrarian-based lifestyle. Villages still lack some basic modern services, such as garbage removal, so don’t be surprised if you see litter along the trails. (Please make sure to bring your non-biodegradable trash back to the hotel for disposal). Bhutan may be short on the modern conveniences you’re used to, but it’s overflowing with friendly people who are happy to talk to travelers about their country’s rich cultural heritage and natural wonders.

We gather for lunch and a trip orientation before heading out on our first hike—working out those legs will feel great after our morning of travel and is a good antidote for jet lag. Strap on your hiking boots and set out from Uma Paro, winding through pine forests up to a ridgeline to the pretty grounds of the monastery of Zuri Dzong. Continue to Ta Dzong, which houses Bhutan’s National Museum, for magnificent views over Paro before descending to Paro Dzong, also known as Rinpung Dzong, meaning ―Fortress on a Heap of Jewels.‖ Built in 1646, this celebrated dzong is the center of spiritual life and community events. It stands out from the landscape with bright whitewashed walls, and elaborately carved and painted Buddhist motifs, including dragons and the Jachung, the mythical half-eagle-half-human figure from Mahayana Buddhist and Hindu pantheons. Home to 300 practicing monks, Paro Dzong is the site of the annual Paro Tsechu (one of the country’s most significant religious festivals) and serves as an administrative seat of regional government. Admire the architecture of this massive fortress from the courtyard.

From Paro Dzong, follow the trail across the Paro Chhu (chhu means ―river‖) via a traditional covered bridge and past the main archery ground, Ugyen Pelri Palace, into Paro. Bhutan’s second largest city, Paro is a cultural treasure bustling with activity, though it still feels like a small town in some ways (no department stores, no fancy restaurants). Nomads wander in from the high mountains to stock up on supplies, and locals gather to purchase prayer flags and catch up on news the old-fashioned way—talking one-on-one. Feel free to visit some shops before we shuttle to the hotel.

Upon returning to Uma Paro, you have time to relax before tonight’s reception and dinner. If you’re interested in a spa treatment consider a traditional hot stone bath, known for its healing effects, or a massage. (Please note that spa treatments are not included in the trip price.)

Lodging: Uma Paro

Day 2

Shuttle to Thinleygang 4½ Hours
Punakha Valley Biking Route 29 Miles (200-foot elevation gain; 2,500 elevation loss)
Shorter Option: Dochu La Descent 16 Miles with Shuttle (2,500-foot elevation loss)

We shuttle out of the Paro Valley along a spectacular route that took seven days to cover on foot before it became accessible to vehicles several decades ago. After following the Paro Chhu to its confluence with the Thimphu Chhu, we continue north along the narrow river valley, passing terraced rice fields, virgin forests and scattered villages with homes built in the traditional Bhutanese style of flat red roofs and painted woodwork. Our slow and winding journey takes us up to 10,023-foot Dochu La (la is the Bhutanese word for a mountain pass). If the weather cooperates, relish breathtaking views that encompass several snowcapped Himalayan peaks, including Gangkar Puensum, Bhutan’s highest at 24,740 feet.

After stopping for tea at Dochu La, your leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. Then hop on your bike for a swift descent into the valley, entering a semitropical zone as you lose elevation. Parallel to the road you’re riding on is a trail onced used by the monastic body to travel between Thimphu and Punakha. They still spend summers in Thimphu and winters in warmer Punakha, but no longer use the historic path. Once in the valley, follow the river along a rough but scenic route all the way to Punakha, the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area.

With traditional cozy cottages and expansive views of rice terraces and the Puna Tsang River, our hotel is the simplest of the trip—it’s one of the original hotels built for the king’s coronation in 1974. More than 30 years and a few renovations later, it remains our best option in the valley, with clean rooms and proximity to our activities. Remember that Bhutan only opened its doors to travelers within the past few decades; sometimes simply finding a clean bed to sleep in feels like a monumental accomplishment. This evening we reconvene for dinner at the hotel.

Lodging: Meri Puensum Resort

Day 3

Punakha Dzong Guided Walk 1 Hour
Shuttle to Sirigang 30 Minutes
Chorten Nebu Hike 3.3 Miles (1,250-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 4.7 Miles (1,400-foot elevation gain)
Meri Puensum Biking Route 11 Miles (500-foot elevation gain) or Shuttle to Meri Puensum 45 Minutes

This morning we visit Punakha Dzong, which sits at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu (or ―Mother and Father Rivers‖). Appearing to have been ripped straight from the pages of National Geographic, the 17th-century dzong has served as the winter capital of Bhutan for more than 300 years and is the site of the annual Punakha Serda festival. Namgay leads us on a tour, which includes the incredible meditation hall, and points out recent restoration of areas damaged by fires, a flood and an earthquake. The fort hosted the 2008 coronation of the fifth king and celebrations commemorating the country’s transition to democracy.

After shuttling to Sirigang Zam (zam means ―bridge‖), climb to 700-year-old Chorten Nebu (or ―The Old Temple‖), which recently served as a monastic school housing about 14 young monks. Backroads was one of the first foreign groups to be welcomed into what was previously a more obscure monastery. We remain friends with Chorten Nebu’s monastic body to this day.Our visit offers a great opportunity to gain insight into traditional Bhutanese life, as Chorten Nebu is representative of monasteries that lie far from the main roads. We stop for a packed lunch under an old oak tree outside the chorten, where Namgay reveals more about the customs, history and religion of Bhutan. Back on the trail, drop from the ridge into the valley toward the Rong Chhu. After crossing the river, climb gradually through an agricultural valley dotted with farms and rice paddies. Enjoy the riverside scenery from the van or return to the hotel by bike, following the meandering road from Sirigang, past Punahka Dzong and up a final hill. There’s time to relax at the Meri Puensum Resort before we rejoin Namgay for a drink, and a cultural and historical Q & A session. Afterward we sit down to dinner at the hotel.

Lodging: Meri Puensum Resort

Day 4

Shuttle to Dochu La 1 Hour
Spiritual Ridge Hike 5.3 Miles (1,000-foot elevation gain; 2,000-foot elevation loss)
Shuttle to Thimphu 1 Hour

We bid farewell to the Punakha Valley and head back to Dochu La for a hike that follows a ridgeline high above the Thimphu Valley. Starting out at 11,000 feet and climbing to 12,000 feet, we’re reminded that we are indeed hiking in the Himalayas! Though the elevation and sometimes weather-beaten trail make this a tough route, it’s one of our favorites. We follow in the footsteps of thousands of pilgrims and monks who have traveled along these paths to reach some of the most remote and spectacular monasteries Backroads has ever seen. Leaving the teahouse, ascend through a rhododendron forest to a monastery that seems to float among the clouds. Here we enjoy lunch and amazing 360-degree views (if skies are clear). Back on the trail, hike along the ridge and pass through a nunnery and monastery dedicated to meditation, fitting due to its secluded location. Out of respect, we walk silently past and then descend into the valley, making our way across a stream and through apple orchards to a waiting shuttle.

We next travel to Thimphu, perhaps the world’s only capital city without traffic lights. Though it is in the midst of rapid growth and modernization, much of the city’s infrastructure hasn’t caught up. For example, packaged goods are relatively new to Bhutan (using plastic bags is forbidden—a ban imposed by the former king), and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a convenient trash can in Thimphu or elsewhere in the country in which to dispose of them. And the modern multistoried buildings under construction are being built behind large bamboo (no steel yet) scaffolding.

We check into the elegant Taj Tashi, situated in the heart of town. Later a local monk, who has been proclaimed a reincarnation of a historical monastic figure, joins us for a lively discussion on Buddhism. His warm sense of humor makes our time with him both enlightening and entertaining. Afterward we savor a tasty dinner of Bhutanese and Tibetan cuisine at Chig-ja-gye Restaurant.

Lodging: Taj Tashi

Day 5

Thimphu Valley Walk 3.2 Miles
Cheri Goemba Hike 2 Miles (800-foot elevation gain)
Dodina Biking Route 11 Miles with Shuttle (500-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 23 Miles (500-foot elevation gain)

This morning we stop at the post office to view and perhaps purchase Bhutanese postage stamps, exquisite works of art that constitute one of the kingdom’s most delightful exports. Then hop in the van for a lift past embassies, the royal palace and royal bodyguard camp to Dechen Choling for a beautiful walk through rice paddies and small forests in the Thimphu Valley. Afterward we shuttle to Dodina to start our hike. Cross a covered bridge that spans the Wang Chhu and traverse an open field where locals often picnic and graze horses. Then it’s a steep climb to Cheri Goemba, a monastery built in 1620 by the Shabdrung, one of Bhutan’s most important historic characters. This was the site of Bhutan’s earliest organized monastic body and provides a beautiful perspective on the rural outskirts of the Thimphu Valley.

Your bike awaits at the end of the hike, so jump in the saddle and pedal back to Thimphu. If you prefer not to bike today, feel free to shuttle back to Taj Tashi to relax or head into town in search of traditional crafts. Tonight dine on your own at one of the hotel restaurants or at one of Thimphu’s emerging casual restaurants.

Lodging: Taj Tashi

Day 6

Shuttle to Upper Paro Valley 2 Hours
Lhakhang Hike 3.7 Miles (300-foot elevation gain)

After breakfast we set out for Kyichu Lhakhang Monastery. Legend has it that the first emperor of Tibet built this 7th- century monastery to pin down the foot of the giant ogress who lay across Tibet and Bhutan preventing the spread of Buddhism. Kyichu Lhakhang is the second of 108 temples reputedly built in one day to subdue the demoness and allow Buddhism to flourish. After visiting the monastery, trek across farmland following footpaths used by locals before climbing through blue pine forests and along a ridge above the valley. We stop at a 100-year-old farmhouse along the way, taking time to learn about the unique architecture and construction. Then, surrounded by the 108 prayer flags decorating the ridge, we have lunch while taking in spectacular views across the valley.

This afternoon you’re free to discover the comforts of our final abode, the Zhiwa Ling, built in the style of a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse with a bit of dramatic dzong mixed in. Construction began a few years ago, and we watched gigantic logs being hand-sawed on the site and marveled at the intricate hand-painting that went into every surface. We are thrilled to now offer this hotel on our trip. A foot massage or another treatment at the hotel’s Menla Spa may be the perfect afternoon diversion. (Spa treatments are not included in the trip price.)

We reconvene this evening for a memorable meal at the Yak Herders Tent Restaurant. By now you’ll have noticed that the Bhutanese have a simple diet consisting of rice, cheese, chilies and the occasional Indian dish. We have moved beyond the days of what we called ―white soup‖—once a conspicuous part of every meal—to a greatly expanded menu. When will you ever again have the chance to try yak meat? As we eat we’re treated to a performance of traditional Bhutanese dance.

Lodging: Zhiwa Ling

Day 7

Shuttle to Taktshang 30 Minutes
Taktshang Teahouse Hike 3.3 Miles (1,700-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Taktshang Monastery 6.1 Miles (2,200-foot elevation gain)
Drukgyel Dzong Biking Route 15 Miles (450-foot elevation gain)

Start your day with the best croissants in the Himalayas. Then hop in the van for our drive to Taktshang, the starting point of today’s hike. Our destination is one of Bhutan’s most sacred places and an important pilgrimage destination: the Taktshang (or ―Tiger’s Nest‖) Monastery. Partly damaged by fire in 1998, the cliffside monastery was built atop the cave where Guru Rinpoche, father of Mahayana Buddhism, meditated for three months after arriving in the Paro Valley on the back of a legendary tigress. Locals often display handicrafts for sale along the route to the monastery—evidence of individual enterprise rarely seen until recently.

Begin with an immediate ascent, following the trail high above the valley and passing through forests and by large prayer wheels turned by a stream. Continue hiking up a steep portion of the path to a ridge where prayer flags rustle in the wind. Just beyond, at 9,200 feet, is the Taktshang teahouse, where we stop for a hot drink and striking views of the monastery across the valley. The scene is straight out of a historical novel, and it’s only when a cell phone rings that you realize it’s the 21st century! Depending on your energy level, trek just as far as our lunch spot or tackle the remaining portion of the trail to Takshang Monastery.

We break for lunch at a ridgetop teahouse, which affords phenomenal vistas of the Paro Valley. After descending to the valley, we shuttle back to Zhiwa Ling. If you fancy an afternoon bike ride, continue exploring on a spin to Drukgyel Dzong, an ancient fortress built in the mid-17th century to protect the Paro Valley from further invasions and then devastated by fire three centuries later. To get there, follow the road until the valley narrows into a forested glen, then disembark from your bike. After crossing through some farmyards on foot, you’ll see it in the distance. It’s a short but steep climb up to the dzong, whose ruins emanate a mystical aura. From its perch you may be able to see the distant towering peak of Jomolhari (23,996 feet), which lies along the Bhutan and Tibet borders.

Tonight we celebrate with a farewell dinner. You may decide to partake in a nightcap beside the hotel bar’s stone fireplace, or turn in early to get a good night’s sleep before our early-morning departure.

Lodging: Zhiwa Ling

Day 8

Flight to Bangkok 4 Hours (includes a possible stop in Calcutta, Dhaka or Bagdogra)

After an early breakfast, we drive to the Paro airport. Namgay joins us for a prayer flag ceremony before we catch the Druk Air flight for Bangkok.