Day 1

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 9:30 a.m. in the lobby of the Alila Ubud hotel, located in Payangan, near Ubud. Please arrive dressed in your biking clothes and bring a separate daypack with items you may want for today’s ride.

North Ubud Loop 14 Miles

We kick off the trip with a light brunch of Balinese delicacies, including an array of exotic and delicious fruits. (Bali offers treats found in few places on the planet!). Then we head outside, where your Backroads leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. You’ll also meet Wayan Narta, our local guide and good friend, who’ll be with us for the entire trip. (Wayan has been Backroads’ ―secret weapon‖ for 15 years! He’s an accomplished painter, dancer and cook, and brings a wonderful sense of humor and valued insider’s perspective.) Then set off on your first ride through the lush green Balinese countryside. The hilly loop—think of it as a crash course for your legs to prepare them for the rest of the week’s riding—leads past many small villages nestled between terraced rice paddies. You’re rewarded for your efforts with gorgeous views and tropical breezes. There may be more motorbikes and trucks on the road these days, but otherwise life in these rural communities remains much as it has always been.

If you’d prefer to take it easy today, you’re welcome to lounge by the hotel’s breathtaking emerald-green pool and check into your room once it becomes available. You can also head into town to familiarize yourself with your new surroundings—Ubud offers a dazzling array of local crafts. (The next best place to shop for handicrafts is at the end of our trip, so the real shoppers among you will want to reserve time to explore Ubud!)

Later in the day we reconvene at our hotel, an intimate sanctuary perched high above the Ayung River. For the next two nights enjoy the Alila Ubud’s renowned swimming pool and on-site health spa, which offers traditional treatments in private open-air pavilions. (Please note that spa services aren’t included in the trip price.) Although located outside Ubud, the Alila offers a peacefulness and sophistication unparalleled by hotels closer to the town center. This evening we chat over cocktails before feasting on a dinner of traditional Balinese delights.

Lodging: Alila Ubud

Day 2

Ayung River Rafting Trip 4 Hours
Ubud Route 18 Miles with Shuttle

After a hearty breakfast at our hotel, we embark on an exciting raft trip on the Class II and III rapids of the Ayung River, the longest river in Bali and a great place to experience the countryside from a different perspective. Paddling downriver, enjoy views of waterfalls, hillside bungalows and the last virgin rain forest on the island. A beautiful picnic spread is served on the riverbank.

After lunch you may choose to shuttle to Ubud to shop, or immerse yourself in traditional Balinese life with a bike ride through the cultural heart of the island. If you opt to bike, begin by following the only eastbound road toward the village of Payangan, tackling some of the hilliest terrain in the area. Our route climbs over a number of ridges and drops into several valleys. Then cruise downhill and into Ubud, pedaling past Puri Saren Agung, the city’s royal palace, before leaving town and continuing along narrow car-free paths through villages, and past temples, family compounds and acres of terraced rice fields. Traditional walled communities line your descent into Mas, then a forest road leads to Pura Dalem (Temple of the Dead), almost completely hidden by a tangle of moss and twisted vines. This forest is home to gray monkeys who, though charming and quiet when glimpsed from afar, are anything but shy if they think you have bananas! From here it’s a short walk or ride back to Ubud. Take time to sample the city’s exceptional regional cuisine for lunch on your own.

Spend the rest of the afternoon discovering Ubud’s many craft shops, art galleries and temples before returning to the hotel by van or bike. (If you pedal, get ready for a nice uphill!) Or, join Wayan for a unique cultural visit to the Balinese family compound of our good friend Made. We learn about sacred Balinese rituals, customs and traditional dress. After meeting the family, we’re welcomed into their temple and may receive a blessing for our journey.

In the evening, enjoy another fine meal in the open-air dining room of our hotel at your leisure.

Lodging: Alila Ubud

Day 3

Pura Taman Ayun Route 18 Miles
Shuttle to Lake Bratan 1 Hour
Lovina Beach Route 38 Miles

This morning’s ride begins at with a level stretch from the hotel and continues along narrow side roads into Penestanan, and through the colorful villages of Bongkasa and Villa Semana. You’ll pass a lively outdoor market before returning to the main road in front of Taman Ayun (―beautiful garden‖), the main temple for the ancient Kingdom of Mengwi. Built in 1634, it is one of Bali’s most picturesque temples with a massive moat and three nested courtyards, and Wayan shows us around on a fascinating tour.

Afterward we shuttle up the revered Gunung Batur volcano en route to Lake Bratan, where we explore ethereal Ulun Danu temple. Then jump in the saddle for a beautiful ride through pine and hardwood forests, with lovely views of Lake Buyan. Our route hugs the spine of the volcano which requires some climbing—but the vista is spectacular! (Feel free to get a boost to from the van.) Our lunch spot, Puri Lumbung, is an open-air tree-house-style dining platform overlooking a hillside of cascading clove, banana and coffee trees.

Following lunch we bike downhill to Lovina Beach, a resort town on the island’s north end. On the nine-mile descent, you’ll breeze through fields of hydrangea, and aromatic groves of coffee and clove trees. Take in views of orchards and banana plantations as you continue down the volcano’s north side to Puri Bagus Lovina, a casual seaside resort where we make our home for the night. These accommodations are simpler than those of the Alila, and the reserved service is reflective of how far off the beaten tourist path we are. But it’s the finest hotel in the area and offers easy access to our bike rides, as well as unique cultural opportunities.

Beaches on this side of the island are made of rough black coral, a stark contrast from the white fine sand we’ll find toward the end of our trip. And while it’s not sand castle-building material, the location is great for snorkeling and exploring. Dinner this evening is a relaxing poolside feast accompanied by soothing rindik (bamboo xylophone) music.

Lodging: Puri Bagus Lovina

Day 4

Tembok Route 30 Miles
Shorter Option: 22 Miles with Shuttle

We fuel up with a delicious breakfast before riding to the tranquil village of Tembok. After passing through Singaraja (Bali’s second largest city), pedal along the island’s arid northeast coast, stopping at the cold pools of Air Sanih for a refreshing break from the heat. Our route follows the sparsely populated shoreline and offers views of villages, temple festivals, and banana and coconut plantations. Expect to be awed by the jewel-like Bali Sea and the majestic Gunung Agung, Bali’s ―mother mountain,‖ where locals believe all life begins. It’s more than 10,000 feet high and just eight miles from the sea. Be prepared for curious glances and smiles from the villagers; this side of the island sees few Westerners, and they’ll no doubt wonder who we are, where we came from and what we’re doing. You'’ll also pass by more temples today, which locals often decorate in honor of Hindu gods and their own ancestors. Just in time for lunch we arrive at our remote hotel, Spa Village Tembok, an atmospheric beachfront hideaway.

The afternoon is yours to take it easy at the resort: walk on the black-sand beach, relax beside the infinity pool, treat yourself to a massage (spa services not included in the trip price) or just enjoy the peace and tranquility. This evening’s delicious seaside dinner provides a perfect ending to the day.

Lodging: Spa Village Tembok

Day 5

Manggis Route 33 Miles with Shuttle
Shorter Option: 16 Miles
Longer Option: 42 Miles

A beautiful day of riding awaits! After breakfast we take advantage of the cooler morning hours by jumping on our bikes and coasting along flat roads with stunning views of the Gunung Agung on one side and coastal villages on the other. Pedal along the north coast to the village of Culik, with its bustling market. From here, ride or shuttle up to a lofty pass for an exhilarating descent past some of the most scenic rice terraces of the trip. If you’d like, stop to explore the area’s villages, which specialize in goldsmithing and silversmithing.

There’s a short climb approaching the small town of Candi Dasa, with seaside views to help distract you from the effort. Here we stop for a scrumptious lunch before continuing to our luxurious beachfront hotel, Alila Manggis, where a host of amenities awaits. The rest of the afternoon is yours to enjoy as you please. Later, savor an evening meal in the hotel’s open-air dining room.

Lodging: Alila Manggis

Day 6

Village Loop 14 Miles

This morning, while village life is active, you have a few fantastic options. You can take a loop ride to the nearby communities of Gegelang and Andakasa, passing small family compounds and the local school, where you can make friends with Balinese children as they do ―morning exercises.‖ Or, join the Alila Manggis’s chef on a visit to the Klungkung village market and participate in a private cooking class, using the fresh ingredients you’ve purchased. In the casual setting of the breezy open-air restaurant, you’ll learn the secrets for creating such Indonesian specialties as nasi campur and mie goreng—then we all enjoy the fruits of your labor for lunch! If you want to ride and cook, take the bike loop after lunch to work off the fantastic meal.

This afternoon you can visit Tenganan, a unique pre-Hindu village and the only place in Indonesia where beautiful double-ikat weavings are produced. Many of the residents are farmers, artists and craftspeople, all descendants of the aboriginal Balinese who settled on the island long ago. The place still has a distinctly Polynesian feel, which is especially noticeable in its architecture. Learn how to make ikat, or take advantage of the area’s unique shops.

If you’d prefer, forgo today’s activities and pamper yourself at the spa (spa services not included in trip price) or relax by the pool. Tonight we’re joined by local performers demonstrating the lively and dynamic kecak dance. Our farewell dinner is an outdoor barbecue feast that takes place in a nearby coconut grove following the performance. Lodging: Alila Manggis

Day 7

Blue Lagoon Snorkeling 2 Hours
Shuttle to Denpasar Airport 1 Hour

A fantastic snorkel in Bali’s Blue Lagoon is a perfect way to cap off our tropical adventure. Local guides escort us from the hotel to a junking, which whisks us to the Blue Lagoon, whose beds of hard and soft coral provide a home for a vast array of beautiful fish. Keep an eye out for the vividly colored parrot fish, reef sharks (don’t worry, they don’t bite) and giant clams.

After returning to the hotel, we eat a quick breakfast before saying our goodbyes.