Adventure 16: Outdoor and Travel Outfitters - Since 1963

< Back to Search Results

Choquequirao to Machu Picchu

Hiking/Trekking in South America with Geographic Expeditions

Full Description

Entrancingly off the increasingly trod track, Choquequirao (“Cradle of Gold” in Quechua—“The Other Machu Picchu,” a recent article in the New York Times called it) is an amazingly preserved Inca outpost, four times the size of Machu Picchu, dramatically perched on a promontory nearly 6000 feet above the roaring Apurimac River Gorge. Though its existence has been known for some time, Choquequirao has only recently been accessible to nonacademics, and has quickly joined the ranks of the world’s great Lost Cities.

Our strenuous and splendidly rare mule-supported trek, created by our Peru monarch Clark Kotula, takes us over high passes, along perfectly preserved Inca trails lavished with magnificent Andean views, to the newly famous, but still little visited Choquequirao. These wondrous ruins, only 40 percent excavated, get a few hundred visitors in a year, as opposed to Machu Picchu’s 2,500 daily visitors, in large part because it takes some effort to get there—about 20 miles on foot across a 10,000-foot deep gorge from the nearest trailhead, to be precise.

After dallying in the ruins—“Twenty-five years ago Machu Picchu must have looked much like this,” the Times said—we cross the Vilcabamba Range from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu in five days, passing through remote indigenous villages and over a 15,900-foot pass between glaciated peaks to finally descend into the lush, orchid-profuse cloud forest that surrounds Machu Picchu, where we will wander extensively before heading to the Incan capital of Cusco (see Machu Picchu and the Urubamba), and on to Lima and home.

Includes:

• Hotel and lodge accommodations as noted in itinerary
• Meals as noted in the itinerary
• Fully supported trek
• Private ground transport as noted in the itinerary
• Local sightseeing with experienced English-speaking local guides
• Airport Transfers
• Geographic Expeditions' Medical and Accident Insurance and Assistance Plan

Excludes:

• International airfare USA/Lima/USA
• Intra-Peru airfare Lima/Cusco/Lima
• Airport taxes ($6 local, $31 international)
• Enroute stopovers to/from Lima
• Meals other than noted
• Sleeping Bags (Available to rent in Cusco if requested at time of booking)
• All alcoholic beverages
• Passport/visa fees
• Airport taxes
• Items of a personal nature such as tips, laundry, and telephone
• Trip cancellation, travel delay or baggage insurance (Note: This optional coverage is highly recommended and can be purchased through Geographic Expeditions.)
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Geographic Expeditions

Day by Day Itinerary

Day 1

USA TO LIMA-Most flights from the USA arrive in the evening. Upon arrival, our representative will be at the airport to greet group members and escort them to the airport hotel for the night. Hotel Costa del Sol (no meals)

Day 2

EXPLORE CUSCO-Early morning check in for our flight to Cusco. This is one of the most spectacular flights anywhere in the world. It takes us from sea level to 11,400 feet in just an hour, just before arrival you will see a patchwork quilt of tranquil Andean fields and tiny hamlets amongst the spectacular glaciated peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba, the very area we’ll soon be trekking through. Cusco airport is unique and requires the pilot to make a sweeping 180 degree turn to enter the valley, providing us with amazing views of the Incan city center. Upon arrival, we will be greeted by our local leader staff and transferred to the historic Hotel Libertador, which is located atop ancient Incan ruins and directly across the street from the Temple of the Sun. After some time to acclimatize and have lunch, we’ll enjoy a guided walking tour of Cusco, taking in the city’s main Incan and colonial sites. Cusco is the archaeological capital of the Americas and the oldest continuously inhabited city on the continent. As the center of the Inca Empire, it was so important that it was known as the “belly button of the world.” Cusco’s enchantingly narrow, winding city streets are lined with Inca-built stone walls and crowded with Quechua-speaking descendants of the Incas. In addition, the city has magnificent repositories of colonial art, especially in the cathedral, built in 1559. As the great traveler Jan Morris has written, Cusco is “a little city of such supreme interest and historical symbolism, of such variety and punch, that it combines the compulsions Stonehenge, a small Barcelona, and a Kathmandu.” Hotel Libertador (B, D)

Day 3

DAY HIKE IN THE SACRED VALLEY-The Moray–Maras half-day hike is a fantastic combination of big views, local farming techniques, Inca Ruins, ancient towns, and astounding salt pans, giving us a chance to stretch our legs before the official trek begins. After breakfast in Cusco, we start with a drive to the Inca ruins of Moray. This fascinating collection of circular terraces is believed to be an Incan agricultural center used to improve high altitude crops – an essential commodity for the huge Incan armies and road building teams essential to support the empire. We’ll have time to fully explore these fascinating ruins before we begin our walk across the fertile plain of Chincheros, rich with grain, potatoes, and beans. Labor intensive local farming techniques are well demonstrated en route before our arrival in the village of Maras, with its ornate colonial doorways and vast church. We’ll enjoy a picnic lunch with panoramic views of the glaciated Cordillera Vilcanota serving as a backdrop. After lunch, we follow an ancient mule-train track down into the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Here we encounter amazing salt pans which cover the whole of the hillside (these salt pans were mentioned with admiration in the chronicles of the conquering Spanish). We meet our vehicle again beside the Urubamba River and drive on to the Inca fortress of Ollantaytambo, where we will explore this enigmatic and evocative site before sundown. Hotel Libertador (B, L, D)

Day 4

TO CACHORA-We depart very early from the Sacred Valley on a long but incredibly scenic drive to our treks starting point. Mid-morning we will take a break and visit the baffling ruins of Tarawasi which was a grain storage and administrative checkpoint center for the Incas along the main Incan road connecting Cusco with the Pacific coast. The name “Tara” comes from the trees which surround the ruins and bear fruit consisting of a rare seed pod, high in tannic acid, which is still used today by the local people to tan leather and llama hides. After crossing the Apurimac River, the route climbs the others side of the gorge and we will stop for a picnic lunch at the Incan carved boulder of Sahuite. After a splendid lunch, we will have ample time to explore the ruins before making the final drive to Cachora. Cachora is the end of the road and will be the starting point of our trek. From where the road ends in Cachora, it is a short 30 minute walk to our campsite on the town. Upon arrival at the campsite we will meet all of the expedition staff and camp crew, including an introduction to the campsite “mechanics”. This first campsite gives us an encouraging senses of how incredibly scenic this trek is going to be – we will watch sunset over the abysmal Apurimac gorge with a direct view East towards the glaciated peak of Padreyoc. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 5

CACHORA TO SANTA ROSA-The official trek starts today with a bang, this is one of the longest days of the trek as we cross the largest topographical feature of our route, the Apurimac gorge. The route starts today with a gradual uphill climb through small settlements and farm fields to the pass and lookout point of Capuliyoc. Here we will get a real sense of the immensity of the gorge we are about to cross and get our first glimpse of Choquequirao across the expanse. With full mule support we descend over 4,000 feet to the bottom of the canyon, crossing the roaring Apurimac River on a suspension footbridge. Lunch will be served half way down the descent in the settlement of Chiquiska where broad-leafed banana trees provide welcome shade from the increasing heat in the canyon. The Apurimac River is the true source of the Amazon and in the local Quechua language means “oracle of the gods.” After crossing the river, a final steep climb brings us to the small village and sugarcane fields of Santa Rosa, where we will camp for the night. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 6

SANTA ROSA TO CHOQUEQUIRAO-After the incredible challenge of yesterday, we have a fairly short and enjoyable hike today to our next campsite. We hike up out of the canyon in the morning, regaining the rest of the altitude that we lost during the morning hours yesterday. The trail zigzags its way up the canyon until topping out in the small village of Marampata, after which we will be presented with ever-changing views of the extensiveness of Choquequirao as we contour around the mountainside. The vegetation becomes lusher and we will pass below a thundering waterfall before reaching our base camp just short of the Choquequirao archeological complex in time for a late lunch. We will be based out of this campsite for the next two nights, providing us with ample time to explore Choquequirao and also to recuperate after the very hard Apurimac canyon crossing. This afternoon, those feeling energetic can enjoy a quick introductory visit to the main ruins in the evening while others may opt to rest up and save their fist look at Choquequirao for the following day. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 7

CHOQUEQUIRAO-We arrive early at Choquequirao and have a full day to explore and marvel at this dramatic city perched above the roaring Apurimac River. The purpose of Choquequirao is still unclear; though it is the largest of the ruins in the vicinity of Machu Picchu, it was unmentioned in the Spanish chronicles and remained undiscovered by the outside world until the 18th Century. Most archaeologists believe it was built during the reign of Inca Pachaqutec and served as one of the last Incan strongholds and hideouts during the Spanish conquest. There are some concrete similarities to Machu Picchu such as the dramatic location on a high promontory over an S-bend in the river below, but many things about Choquequirao such as the stonework differ greatly from Machu Picchu. Some areas of Choquequirao posses stonework that is only similar to constructions made by the Chachapoyas culture of very northern Peru. But it is known that the Incas displaced large populations across the Empire to create public works so possibly this is an explanation for the connection with Chachapoyas which is over 1,500 miles away. Choquequirao (a Quechua word meaning Cradle of Gold) is separated into four main sectors, with enormous curving banks of fine terracing, a chain of ritual baths, and a central plaza surrounded by fine ceremonial and high status residential architecture. Large areas are still covered by thick cloud forest, giving us an insight into how the first explorers felt when they arrived at this longdeserted city. One of the highlights of Choquequirao is the hilltop ceremonial platform that provides a spectacular 360 degree panorama of the sacred peaks surrounding it. Apart from the four main sectors, there are auxiliary sites, mostly terraced sections flowing down the 180 degrees of mountainside flank below the main constructions. Again, energy and time permitting, you can explore as many of these sectors as you like before returning to the campsite. It is a good idea to factor in some time to relax in the campsite this evening as we have another deep canyon to cross tomorrow. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 8

CHOQUEQUIRAO TO MAIZAL-Leaving at the crack of dawn, we bid farewell to Choquequirao. We might have seen other trekking parties up until Choquequirao, but as we pass the ruins today and carry on across the Vilcabmaba range the trail narrows and it would be surprising to run into others on the trail, except from some local farmers, until we are approaching Machu Picchu. The route today starts with a sharp climb over the Choquequirao pass which brings us to another canyon created by the Rio Blanco which we will be crossing today. It is a long way down (and back up) the Rio Blanco gorge (4,000ft+ on each side). Half way down the descent, before the vegetation melts away, we will come across a splendid set of terraces called Picha Unuyoc – the “water shrine”, which we will have time to explore before finishing the descent. Lunch will be served at the bottom of the canyon alongside the river, whose cool clear waters most take advantage of to cool off from the heat. It’s straight up the other side for the rest of the day, through increasingly verdant vegetation and bamboo thickets to our campsite in the small settlement of Maizal. It’s arguable which of the canyon crossings is the toughest, but one thing is for certain, once we have made it to Maizal the remainder of the route is pure enjoyment with the hardest days behind us now. We will enjoy the sunset from Maizal, where three amiable families live and eek out an existence from their animals and high altitude plots of corn, quinoa and potatoes. The village is charming and full of livestock which add a humorous aspect to this campsite as we try to keep the goats, chickens and pigs from wandering between the tents. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 9

MAIZAL TO YANAMA-Starting early again, we climb along well preserved Inca paths through verdant vegetation to the 14,432-foot San Juan Pass which we will reach just after lunch. Along this portion of the route we encounter numerous abandoned mine shafts, remnants of work first started in Incan times and later exploited by 17th century Jesuit missionaries. We will remember to bring our flashlights along today in order to make a short foray into one of the main mine shafts, Mina Victoria, whose tailings are still rich with silver ore. Atop the pass, weather permitting, we’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views of aptly named Pumasillo (the Puma’s Claw, 19,800 imposing feet) as well as numerous other lesser snow capped peaks. Condors are often seen in this area soaring the ridge thermals above us. From the pass we will make another remarkable descent into the Yanama valley, portions of the trail along the descent were engineered by the Incas and are extraordinary. Our riverside campsite tonight is in the charming and idyllic Andean village of Yanama. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 10

YANAMA TO TOTORA-Today we will reach the highest point of the journey, topping out at 15,252ft at Totora Pass. The route begins with a gradual climb up the tranquil Yanama valley, usually amongst local villagers and their animals who are “off to work” and headed up to tend to their fields at the base of the mountains. The views in the morning while heading up the valley are incredibly distracting, two opposing glaciated peaks fill your periphery and are cause for frequent stops. The final great challenge of passing Totora pass is usually completed by midday, pausing to celebrate this triumph and pondering the fact that we are standing on the official “spine” of the Andes. Totora pass marks the official dive between two great watersheds, the Apurimac which flows below Choquequirao, and the Urubamba which flows below Machu Picchu (all these waters ultimately end up in the Amazon). Totora pass is graced with tremendous views of the Vilcabamba Range’s sacred peaks-- Sacsayroc, Salcantay and Yanama--which rise between Machu Picchu and Choquequirao. From here it’s downhill (well, not exactly, but theoretically) to Machu Picchu, following the Santa Theresa River Valley, a tributary of the Urubamba. From the high pass we will descend into the Totora valley and have a late lunch near the river. A final couple of hours hiking bring us to the jovial village of Totora where we camp next to the local school. This campsite always attracts groups of laughing and playful local children who are interested to interact with us. Local food supplies permitting, we plan to have a “pachamanca” (or traditional Andean barbeque which is cooked by hot rocks inside a makeshift earthen oven) with the local villagers for dinner. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 11

TOTORA TO LUCMABAMBA-A day of incredible changing scenery as we descend the final portions of the Totora gorge, which intersects at Colpapampa with the larger Santa Teresa river that we will be following for the remainder of the day. In total, we will drop nearly 5,000 feet today and the environment will take on an undeniable jungle feel. The route crosses many small streams at the base of waterfalls cascading through the verdant cloud forest and many orchid species will be encountered along the way. After lunch we’ll pass through increasingly cultivated areas with coffee, coca, banana, and papaya plantations bursting from the hillsides before reaching the settlement of Playa which is only a short distance along beautifully preserved Incan path to our campsite at Lucmabamba. Lucmabamba is a pleasant farming village set amongst well cultivated terraces and we most often camp, again, next to the village school. Many a local children has been scolded when we pass through for coming ome too late because they were playing with the “gringos”. Camping (B, L, D)

Day 12

LUCMABAMBA TO AGUAS CALIENTES-In the morning, we will sadly say farewell to the majority of our trek staff who will be returning home today. We mark the occasion with a traditional Andean farewell ceremony before beginning our final day of trekking. The route today finds us climbing through coffee plantations and fragrant citronella trees along a remarkably well preserved Incan pathway. It is roughly a three hour climb (and the last climb, we promise) to the pass at Llactapata. Just beyond the pass our first view, of a very familiar looking ridge, appears through clearings in the vegetation. We arrive into an obscure and currently being excavated Incan site called Llactapata which provides a heart stirring and very rare view of Machu Picchu, appearing like an emerald set in soaring peaks. This is a sight very few travelers are privileged to witness, a dramatic look at the famed ruins in their full mountainous context. After time to celebrate the sight and poke around in the ruins, we will begin our final, very steep descent (the last descent, we promise) into the Aobamba gorge which we will follow out to our routes glorious end along the banks of the Urubamba River at the railway station below Machu Picchu. A celebratory lunch will be served before we board a short but spectacular train journey to the village of Machu Picchu (formerly Aguas Calientes). Here we check into the sublime and justly famed Inkaterra Hotel, a series of whitewashed Andean cottages set amongst tranquil gardens, where we can rightfully wallow in the luxury of long hot showers and 500 thread-count sheets for the next two nights. Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel (B, L, D)

Day 13

MACHU PICCHU-We may well have a unique perspective on Machu Picchu after our experience at Choquequirao, and we’ll have the entire day to explore the great ruins in depth. We’ll catch the first shuttle up to the archetypal Lost City, and have it virtually to ourselves during the sunrise hours as we begin our expertly guided tour. Machu Picchu is the best-known Inca site, but little is known of its importance to the Incas. It is not mentioned in any of the Spanish chronicles and archaeologists can only speculate on its function. Though it was known to the Quechua who lived around it, the modern world was unaware of its existence until Hiram Bingham “discovered” it by accident in 1911. (“Surprise followed surprise,” Bingham later wrote, “until there came the realization that we were in the midst of as wonderful ruins as any ever found.”) From the fine quality of its stonework, it is assumed that it once must have been an important Incan ceremonial center, but despite the legions of archaeologists who have studied Machu Picchu, it remains essentially mysterious and inscrutable. We’ll enjoy lunch at the Sanctuary Lodge and have the rest of the day free to climb Huayna Picchu, the sharp peak that rises dramatically above the ruins, walk out to the Inca drawbridge, or just wander through the ruins, soaking up their enchanting atmosphere and contemplating their connection with Choquequirao and its future as a tourist attraction as compared with Machu Picchu. We’ll have the evening free to stay in the ruins for sunset or return to our hotel for a sauna and massage. Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel (B, L, D)

Day 14

CUSCO-An early morning train takes us from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. From the fortress of Ollantaytambo we will transfer to a private vehicle for the final drive to Cusco and our beloved Hotel Libertador. We have the rest of the day free to enjoy this magical city. there is much to see and do in Cusco, whether your interest is in visiting one of its fine museums, visiting Colonial churches, bargain hunting in markets, or just relaxing over a cappuccino on a terrace overlooking the bustling Plaza de Armas near our hotel. We will enjoy one final celebration dinner together out on the town.

Day 15

TO LIMA-A late morning flight brings us to Lima, where a day room has been arranged at the airport hotel. A vehicle and guide will be available to take us on a tour of Lima and a farewell group lunch overlooking the Pacific before we return to the airport for our international flights home. Costa del Sol day use room or overnight (B, L)

About The Operator:

Geographic Expeditions

Headquarters:

San Francisco, CA

Established:

January 1981

A pioneer of travel to remote and challenging destinations since 1982, Geographic Expeditions offers a varied portfolio of journeys to the world's most astonishing places. The company's 30th anniversary roster features more than 150 Small Group Itineraries to all seven continents, as well as an unlimited number of hand-crafted Private Departures for families, groups of friends, media location specialists, and non-profit/ major-donor cultivation travel. GeoEx has received numerous awards and special recognition from Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Departures, National Geographic Traveler and Outside Magazine.