Day 1

On the first day of the trip, one of your Backroads Trip Leaders will meet you in Bangkok, Thailand, in the lobby of the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, between 3:30 and 5 a.m. (Your Trip Consultant will contact you by mail 30 days before the trip start with the exact meeting time.)

Flight to Paro, Bhutan 4 Hours (includes meal en route & a possible stop in Calcutta, Dhaka or Rangoon)
Drukgyel Dzong Hike 4 Miles (250-foot elevation gain)

After meeting, your Backroads Trip Leader escorts the group to the Druk Air ticket counter at Bangkok’s international airport for the flight to Paro, Bhutan, where our adventure begins. After landing it’s a short drive to the five-star Zhiwa Ling hotel, our home for the first two nights. We meet Namgay Tshering, our local leader for the trip, a gracious host and invaluable resource. Namgay comes from a typically modest Bhutanese background, but his world travels have given him a unique perspective on his country.

We gather for lunch and a trip orientation before shuttling to a trailhead in the Paro Valley. Then begin your first hike with a short steep climb to Drukgyel Dzong (dzong is the word for a Bhutanese fort), which was built in the mid-17th century to protect the Paro Valley from further invasions. Although devastated by fire in 1951, the remains of this ancient citadel retain a mystical ambience. On a clear day you may be able to see the distant towering peak of Jomolhari (23,996 feet), which lies along the Bhutan and Tibet borders. From the fortress, hike down to the valley floor and past farms and small clusters of dwellings perched above the river. After crossing a suspension bridge, follow the path back towards the dzong. This trail is used primarily by locals and gives you an up-close glimpse of Bhutanese life.

Although Bhutan is a champion of progressive issues such as increased democratization and wildlife preservation, the Bhutanese live a largely simple, agrarian-based lifestyle. Villages still lack some basic modern services, such as garbage removal, so don’t be surprised if you see some litter along the trails. (Please make sure to bring your non-biodegradable trash back to the hotel for disposal). Although Bhutan may be short on the modern development you are used to, it is overflowing with friendly people who are happy to talk to travelers about their country’s rich cultural heritage and natural wonders.

After completing our hike, we shuttle back to the hotel and enjoy a reception and dinner.

Lodging: Zhiwa Ling

Day 2

Kyichu Lhakhang Hike 3.7 Miles (300-foot elevation gain)
Paro Dzong Walk & Visit 1 Mile (50-foot elevation gain)

This morning we pack a lunch and shuttle to Kyichu Lhakhang Monastery. Legend has it that the first emperor of Tibet built this 7th- century monastery to pin down the foot of the giant ogress who lay across Tibet and Bhutan preventing the spread of Buddhism. Kyichu Lhakhang is the second of 108 temples, reputedly built in one day to subdue the demoness and allow Buddhism to flourish. After visiting the monastery, we trek across farmland following footpaths used by locals before climbing through blue pine forests and along a ridge above the valley. We visit a 100-year-old farmhouse along the way, taking time to learn about the unique architecture and construction. Then, surrounded by the 108 prayer flags decorating the ridge, we have lunch while enjoying spectacular views across the valley.

We continue our explorations after crossing a traditional Bhutanese covered drawbridge over the Paro Chhu (chhu means ―river‖) on a well-traveled path that leads to the Paro Dzong. Built in 1646, this celebrated dzong is used as a hub for spiritual life and communal events. It stands out from the landscape with bright whitewashed walls, and elaborately carved and painted Buddhist motifs, including dragons and the Jachung, the mythical half-eagle-half-human figure from Mahayana Buddhist and Hindu pantheons. Home to 300 practicing monks, Paro Dzong is the site of the annual Paro Tsechu (one of the country’s most significant religious festivals) and serves as an administrative seat of regional government. Admire the architecture of this massive fortress from the courtyard.

A shuttle then transports us back to Paro and our hotel. Bhutan’s second largest town, Paro is still quite small (no department stores, no fancy restaurants) but bustles with culture. Nomads wander into town from the high mountains to stock up on supplies, and locals gather to purchase prayer flags and catch up on news the old-fashioned way—talking one-on-one. We reconvene later this evening for another memorable meal of Bhutanese specialties.

Lodging: Zhiwa Ling

Day 3
Shuttle to Thimphu 2 Hours
Cultural Stroll in Thimphu 1 Hour
Thimphu Ridge Hike 3.7 Miles (400-foot elevation gain)

We shuttle out of the Paro Valley to Thimphu along a spectacular route—a three-day trek before it became accessible to vehicles several decades ago. We follow the Paro Chhu to its confluence with the Thimphu Chhu and continue farther north along the narrow river valley, passing terraced rice fields, virgin forests, and scattered villages with homes built in the traditional Bhutanese style of flat red roofs and painted woodwork.

Thimphu may be the world’s only capital city without traffic lights and remains a city best explored on foot. Though it is in the midst of rapid growth and modernization, much of the city’s infrastructure hasn’t caught up. For example, packaged goods are relatively new to Bhutan (using plastic bags is forbidden—a ban imposed by the former king), and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a convenient trash can in which to discard them. And the modern multistoried buildings under construction are being built behind large bamboo (no steel yet) scaffolding. We discover the town, stopping at the National Institute for Zorig Chosum, where students learn traditional thangka painting, sculpture, wood and slate carving, embroidery and other crafts. Afterward, check into our hotel for the next two nights, the dzong-style Taj Tashi, and enjoy a buffet lunch in the hotel restaurant.

This afternoon you can keep exploring Thimphu on your own or join your Backroads Trip Leader for a hike in the hills above the city. After shuttling to the trailhead, follow a mostly level path until you reach a monastery built in the 15th century. From here relish views of Thimphu, including the parliament building and ministers’ offices, before visiting the monastery temple. Note the beautifully carved snow lions above the chapel and the temple’s famous statue of Sakyamuni. Continue on the trail through some relatively steep portions. You’ll reach a ridge above the temple and then descend through thousands of prayer flags back to where you started. Later, join us for a chance to meet some takins, Bhutan’s national animal. These rare Himalayan creatures are closely related to the Arctic musk ox—think a cross between a mountain goat and a bison!

This evening, local historian Rinchin joins us for a lively discussion on Buddhism. Then savor a tasty meal of traditional Indian dishes at Chula restaurant.

Lodging: Taj Tashi

Day 4

Shuttle to Dodina 30 Minutes
Cheri Goemba Hike 2 Miles (800-foot elevation gain)
Thimphu Valley Walk 3.2 Miles

Before we get started this morning, you have the option to stop at the post office to view and perhaps purchase Bhutanese postage stamps—exquisite works of art that constitute one of the kingdom’s most delightful exports. Then we shuttle to this morning’s hike in Dodina. Cross a lovely covered bridge that spans the Wang Chhu and walk through an open field where locals often picnic and graze horses. It’s a steep climb to Cheri Goemba, a monastery built in 1620 by the Shabdrung, one of Bhutan’s most important historic characters. This was the site of Bhutan’s earliest organized monastic body and provides a beautiful perspective on the rural outskirts of the Thimphu Valley. After descending from the monastery to a meadow below, we break for a Bhutanese picnic and a chance to try your skills at local lawn darts.

Later set out on a beautiful walk above the river, through small forests of the Thimphu Valley. As we pass pine and rhododendron groves, try to spot capuchin monkeys. Then cross the suspension bridge and climb a steep road before catching a shuttle back to town. Wander Thimphu’s streets this afternoon in search of great local crafts. Tonight enjoy dinner on your own at one of Thimphu’s emerging but casual restaurants.

Lodging: Taj Tashi

Day 5
Shuttle to Thinleygang via Dochu La 2½ Hours
Punakha Hike 4.8 Miles

We spend the morning on a slow and winding journey over the 10,023-foot Dochu La (la is the Bhutanese word for a mountain pass). If the weather cooperates, relish breathtaking views that encompass several snowcapped Himalayan peaks, including Gangkar Puensum, Bhutan’s highest at 24,740 feet. After stopping for tea at Dochu La, we continue to the trailhead at Thinleygang. Descend through pine forests, walking through rice paddies and across streams on bridges built by the locals. This historic trail leads into the Punakha Valley, where you enter a semitropical zone as you lose elevation. The monastic body once used this trail as they traveled between Thimphu and Punakha. They still spend summers in Thimphu and winters in warmer Punakha, but no longer use this trail.

Punakha is the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area. It has a rich history as the old capital and winter home of the Je Khenpo, the religious head of Bhutan. With traditional cozy cottages and expansive views of rice terraces and the Puna Tsang River, our hotel is the simplest of the trip—it’s one of the original hotels built for the king’s coronation in 1974. More than 30 years and a few renovations later, it remains our best option in the valley, with clean rooms and proximity to our hikes. Keep in mind that Bhutan only opened its doors to travelers within the last few decades; sometimes simply finding a clean bed to sleep in feels like a monumental accomplishment.

Lodging: Meri Puensum Resort

Day 6

Shuttle to Sirigang 30 Minutes
Chorten Nebu Hike 3.3 Miles (1,250-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 4.7 Miles (1,400-foot elevation gain)
Shuttle to Hotel 30 Minutes

After shuttling to Sirigang Zam (zam means ―bridge‖), we climb up to Chorten Nebu (or ―The OldTtemple‖), approximately 700 years old and recently used as a monastic school, housing about 14 young monks. Backroads was one of the first foreign groups to be warmly welcomed into what was previously a more obscure monastery. This is a great opportunity to gain insight into traditional Bhutanese life, as Chorten Nebu is representative of monasteries that lie far from the main roads. We stop for a hearty packed lunch under an old oak tree outside the chorten, where Namgay reveals more about the customs, history and religion of Bhutan. Back on the trail, drop from the ridge and into the valley toward the Rong Chhu. After crossing the river, make a gradual descent through an agricultural valley dotted with farms and rice paddies.

During the shuttle ride to our hotel, take in the riverside scenery, including the now-familiar Punakha Dzong, seemingly ripped straight from the pages of National Geographic. Namgay will guide us into this dzong tomorrow, with ample time for exploration.

Back at the hotel, spend a few hours relaxing before we join Namgay for a drink, and a cultural and historical Q&A session. Afterward we sit down to dinner at the hotel.

Lodging: Meri Puensum Resort

Day 7
Punakha Dzong Visit 2 Hours
Shuttle to Paro 5 Hours
Free Time in Paro

This morning we visit Punakha Dzong, which sits at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu (or ―Mother and Father Rivers‖). Built in 1637, this dzong has served as the winter capital of Bhutan for more than 300 years and is the site of the annual Punakha Serda festival. Check out the incredible meditation hall and admire recent restoration following damage from fires, a flood and an earthquake. The dzong held the 2008 coronation of the fifth king and the celebrations noting the country’s change to democracy.

We then say farewell to the Punakha Valley and head back to the Dochu La, stopping for lunch before continuing on to Paro. This afternoon, discover the comforts of the Uma Paro, our hotel for the next two nights. Take advantage of one of the few swimming pools in Bhutan or try a traditional hot stone bath, known for its healing minerals (spa treatments are not included in the trip price).

Tonight you can enjoy a delicious dinner of European, Bhutanese or Indian cuisine at your leisure in the hotel’s restaurant. By now you’ll have noticed that the Bhutanese have a simple diet consisting of rice, cheese, chilies and the occasional Indian dish. We have moved beyond the days of what we called ―white soup‖—once a conspicuous part of every meal—to a greatly expanded menu. It comes at a cost, as most ingredients used by the kitchens of Bhutan’s new hotels are flown in from Bangkok, just as we were.

Lodging: Uma Paro

Day 8
Taktshang Teahouse Hike 3.3 Miles (1,700-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Taktshang Monastery 6.1 Miles (2,200-foot elevation gain)

After starting the day with the best croissants in the Himalayas, hike toward one of Bhutan’s most sacred places—the site of a cliffside monastery and an important pilgrimage destination. Partly damaged by fire in 1998, the Taktshang (or ―Tiger’s Nest‖) Monastery was built atop the cave where Guru Rinpoche, the father of Mahayana Buddhism, meditated for three months after arriving in the Paro Valley on the back of a legendary tigress. Locals often display handicrafts for sale along the route to the monastery—evidence of individual enterprise rarely seen until the past few years.

Begin an immediate ascent, following the trail high above the valley and passing through forests and by large prayer wheels turned by a stream. Continue hiking up a steep portion of the trail to a ridge where prayer flags rustle in the wind. Just beyond is the Taktshang teahouse, at 9,200 feet, where we stop to sip a hot drink and take in striking views of the monastery across the valley. The scene is straight out of a historical novel, and it’s only when a cell phone rings that you realize it’s the 21st century! Depending on your energy level, trek just as far as our lunch spot or tackle the remaining portion of the trail to Takshang Monastery.

We break for a picnic—delivered by yak herders on horseback! Perched on the ridge, savor Bhutanese food while taking in more phenomenal vistas of the Paro Valley. After descending to the valley, we shuttle back to the Uma Paro. Tonight the hotel’s chef has created a special menu for our family-style farewell dinner. You may decide to go to bed early to get a good night’s sleep before our early-morning departure or enjoy a nightcap beside the hotel’s stone fireplace.

Lodging: Uma Paro

Day 9

Flight from Paro to Bangkok 4 Hours (includes a possible stop in Calcutta, Dhaka or Rangoon)
After an early breakfast we drive to the Paro airport. Namgay joins us for a prayer flag ceremony before we catch our flight back to Bangkok.