Mt. Khuiten Trek & Climb in Mongolia
Climbing/Mountaineering in Mongolia with Alpine Ascents International
Highlights
- Climb Mt. Khuiten, the highest mountain in Mongolia, or trek remote regions near base camp
- Both trekkers and climbers can attempt the non-technical Malchin peak
- Explore the wild and stunning Mongolian countryside
Full Description
A unique Mongolian journey designed for the adventurous spirit: climb, trek, and explore the fascinating Mongolian culture.
In Mongolia, one is quickly swept away by the endless green steppes, the heartiness of the Kazakh nomads and the Altai Mountains' rolling landscapes. Mt. Khuiten, straddling the corners of three countries (Russia, China and Mongolia), beckons the adventurous. We travel by jeep to the Altai range, a gorgeous journey, crossing a golden, vast and barren landscape, with rainbows in the horizon, drifting further into one of the last remote regions on earth. This remarkable journey is punctuated by the gentle hospitality of the Kazakh nomads.
This expedition is designed for both climber and trekker. Climbers attempt Mt. Khuiten, the highest mountain in Mongolia, while trekkers explore the remote regions near Base Camp. Both trekkers and climbers attempt the non-technical Malchin peak.
Khuiten Peak (14,350ft/4375m)
Malchin Peak (13,655ft/4163m) (trekking peak)
Our expedition takes place in the Western province of Bayan Olgii, in the Tavan Bogd Range. Here we visit with nomadic shepherds then head to the snow capped, glaciated peaks of the Altai. Geographically, much of the highlands are defined by green pastures with fox, bear, lynx and falcons inhabiting the lower regions. The Mongolian countryside possesses a wide array of indigenous flora and fauna including, yak, horse, sheep and the Bactrian double-humped camel. Our expedition is supported by ponies and we camp throughout the countryside. We visit and overnight in gers, traditional felt-covered nomadic homes. With luck, we may have the opportunity to interact with traditional falconers.
All expeditions begin in the capital Ulaan Baatar. Raw, exciting and diverse, Ulaan Baatar stands as a border to the great expanse of the Gobi desert. Home to the infamous Chinggis (Genghis) Khan, Ulaan Baatar is a noted Buddhist capital that merges traditional monasteries with a new Democratic spirit. We begin this expedition by attending the renowned Naadam festival, Mongolia's traditional Olympics. After attending Naadam and visiting the museums and monasteries, we fly across the country to the Altai region of Western Mongolia and begin our expedition in the land of Kazakh nomads and caravans. This unique Mongolian journey is designed for the adventurous spirit.
Includes:
- All in-country transportation
- Hotels in Mongolia within schedule
- All transport fees
- All group climbing and trekking gear
- All meals
- Park fees and permits
Excludes:
- $25 wire transfer fee (if applicable)
- International round-trip airfare USA-Ulaan Bataar
- Personal gear
- Excess baggage charges and airport taxes
- Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
- All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evac fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
- Personal items
- Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond Alpine Ascents International's control
Day by Day Itinerary
Day 1
Depart USA from Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia
Day 2
Arrive in Ulaan Bataar from Seoul (KE867). (This expedition starts so that we may arrive to visit Naadam festival).
Day 3
Tour the city and attend the sports festival of Nadaam. During our days in UB, we attend Nadaam events and tour traditional monasteries.
Day 4
Fly to Bayan Olgii: After preparing gear and discussing Leave No Trace practices, we travel by jeep and head toward the Tavan Bogd region. We visit with nomads living in traditional gers (tents) and cross the great alpine meadows filled with livestock of yak, sheep, horses and camels. We camp in the lower alpine meadows.
Day 5
Today we hike to the Potaniin glacier and establish our base camp for our climbs of Malchin and Khuiten. This approach is a magnificent hike over tundra terrain. Once we surmount the pass to the Tavang Bogd Glacier, all of the Mongolian Altai mountains stand before us. Along with our two-person tents in Base Camp, a ger will be set up for cooking and dining, allowing us to live in the traditional manner of the Nomads.
Day 6
Climb of a Non-Technical Peak: This climb begins directly out of Base Camp and ascends a scree ridge for 2000 ft for a 3,500ft total climb. The climb takes approximately 5 to 7 hours and we have great views of the Altai mountains lying in all three countries; Mongolia, Russian and China.
Day 7
Active rest day, snow and ice training on glacier, camp.
Day 8
Move to high camp on glacier.
Day 9
Ascent of Khuiten: While the climbers ascend Mt. Khuiten, trekkers explore the lower glaciers. The climb of Khuiten begins with a long traverse of the Potaniin Glacier leading directly to the border of Russia. Just before reaching the border we establish a high camp on the glacier. From this advanced base camp we turn left and surmount the North Ridge, a 3000ft moderate to steep snow ridge often broken with crevasses. The North Ridge takes us directly to the summit where we stand on the highest point in Mongolia viewing all the peaks of the Altai. Return to camp.
Day 10
Upon completion of Kuiten, we attempt the summit of nearby Nairandal. Return to Base Camp
Day 11
After completing our climbs we return back to the ger at the trailhead and begin travel to Olgii. Here we usually have the opportunity to ride back on Mongolian horses.
Day 12
Drive to Sagsai Town, o/n in hotel.
Day 13
Drive back to Bayan Olgii for morning tour. Afternnon flight to Ulaanbaatar, overnight in UB.
Day 14
Free day in UB for shopping/ sightseeing
Day 15
Depart to Seoul (KE868).
About The Operator:
Alpine Ascents International
Headquarters:
Seattle, WA
A Brief History
Founder Todd Burleson has traveled the globe incessantly (from 8 Everest expeditions and the 7 summits, to Greenland, Mongolia and Iran) not only for his love of guiding but his never-ending pursuit of perfecting the Alpine Ascents approach. In 1986 there wasn't much of a business model for international guiding, but making a living at something you love has its merits. While Todd's proficiency in climbing was well regarded, he had a propensity for not only guiding and teaching, but looking at mountains as to how they might be successfully and safely guided (routes, camps, guide ratios, supplies and itineraries). From our early successes on Himalayan Peaks, this approach soon took hold on mountains around the world. Willi Prittie joined on with Todd and added his relentless pursuit of perfection and joy of the mountains to the zeitgeist of Alpine Ascents. This unique combination snowballed into some of the finest logistics, training and guiding in the industry.
With this recipe, Todd and Willi began sculpting a reputation - as a climber's outfitter. This included Willi maniacally developing the Alpine Ascents Mountaineering School, with the theme that any graduate should possess enough safety skills to call themselves a climber. Enter Gordon Janow who brought his eclectic background of writing, business and many years of traveling through Asia to galvanize Alpine Ascents as a business and mind set. This led to other strategic and opportune partnerships with old climbing friends such as Vernon Tejas, Peter Athans, and Jose Luis Peralvo, as well as recruiting, developing and training a host of younger guides that eventually became the core of the Alpine Ascents guiding staff. The office staff, not to be outdone, put the expertise of Matt Lepisto and Kristine Kitayama, and more recently Brent LaDoux, Alayna Cullen, Garrett Madison and Savannah Klunder, along with Todd and Gordon to the task of organizing and creating all that manifests the visions of guides and climbers alike. Most of the original members are with us today, keeping it a jovial and enthusiastic (bordering on obsessive) team.
Alpine Ascents International Today
Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community and operates what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience, not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. We maintain our ongoing process of multi-leveled and critical evaluation for each expedition. Innovations like daily weather reports, established season-long base camps, environmental pioneering, and operating our trips with small climber-to-guide ratios led by Alpine Ascents guides are just some of the factors that keep us in the forefront. Our guides are the primary reason that Alpine Ascents has built such a unique reputation. Many of our guides have been with us for most of their careers and have had the opportunity to participate in a wealth of climbs and programs. Our guides are generally not seasonal employees, who teach a few courses and head back to "other lives", but are dedicated and committed to a life of climbing.
Along with these elements, our commitment to the environment and ethical global business practices make Alpine Ascents the most respected and well-rounded mountain guiding company in the industry. Alpine Ascents is proud to be one of a small minority of companies authorized to guide on Denali, Mt. Rainier and throughout Washington's Cascades.
Program Philosophy ~ Mission Statement
Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally-conscious mountaineers and offering courses and expeditions of unsurpassed quality throughout the world. Our business practices stress ethical and culturally aware travel.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the skill level of this climb?
Climbers should have completed our 6-day training course or have equivalent experience. It is a moderately technical, glaciated climb and requires climber has a good comfort level on crampons. The requirement is also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members. Trekkers need to be in good physical condition
What is the physical conditioning level needed for this climb?
Very good to excellent physical condition. We spend a fair amount of time acclitimizing in the build up to summit day which can be 12 hours or more of climbing.
Any tips on how a climber can maximize their chances of success?
Along with the required crampon skills, review cardio training on the training page of our web site. This climb generally boasts 100% success.
Who is the guiding team (how many guides? ) composed of (Climber to guide ratio)?
These are generally small team trips with group size of 6-8 an Alpine Ascents guide and 1-2 local guides depending on group size.
What is the best season to climb/which dates will have the most chance for success?
July and August are the best times to climb Mt. Khuiten
How many climbers are on this expedition?
Most teams have had 6-8 climbers and 2-3 trekkers.
Will I be sharing a tent or lodging with other climbers?
In the towns you can opt for a single room otherwise we use shared tents
How much will my pack weigh?
On summit day, climbers carry approximately 50-55 pounds.
How does your gear rental system work?
Those requesting rental gear must submit an expedition rental form with payment by fax or mail. All rental gear will be mailed to the climber prior to the climb. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear and return following the expedition.
Any further advice on gear and using your gear list?
While all items are required there may be times when some of the items on the gear list may not be used (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The gear lists are created by the guides to assist in having climbers be prepared to summit in any conditions.
How is drinking water treated?
We boil and or use iodine for all drinking water
What will the meals on the expedition be like? Can I bring some food from home?
Meals are generally of the meat and vegetable variety. There is an excellent supermarket in Ulaan Bator and thus we can keep meals up to our usual standard. You may bring power bars, Gu, or similar high energy foods. All meals will be provided on this climb.
Are there any innoculation requirements?
No requirements at this time.
What is the best air route to my destination?
The best way to travel is via Korea so no further visas are needed. One may also travel via Russia or China but additional visas will be needed.
When should I book my flight? Do I need to use your Travel Agent?
Fares are generally less expensive when booked early. You may use our Travel Agent (Charles Mulvehill 1-800-727-2157) or book flights your self. Please note that flights booked on-line are often difficult to change. Please send us a copy of your flight schedule as early as possible as this allows us to book pick ups and hotels.
What time should I arrive and leave and where do I meet the guides?
Your guide or an Alpine Ascents representative will meet you at the airport. Look for a large Alpine Ascents sign.
What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra night lodging? Is there a single room option for this expedition?
We are happy to make arrangements such as personalized tours, extra hotels rooms, airport pick ups and arrange for private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact with information on single room supplement costs.
Are there any entry or Visa requirements?
Visas will be pre-arranged and picked up upon arrival in Ulaan Battar
Is there any communication while we are on the mountain?
In the cities and in hotels telephones are readily available.
Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?
You can always call our offices and your guide will contact you prior to your departure, generally about 1 month before trip departure. 30 days prior to departure, we will mail a list of other team members to you.
How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?
$500 should easily cover any extra expenses and tips. Most climbers prefer to bring about $1000 and have credit cards.
How much should I tip my guide and staff?
$150 is the suggested tips for all local guides and you may have some perfunctory tips at hotels and at time of transport. Tipping is not required but a common practice. Climbers may also opt to tip the Western guide ( $100+ is an average tip)
What paperwork do I need to send in?
Each climber should submit an application and flight information.
When is the money due for this expedition? What kind of payment do you except?
We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express, personal checks and Alpine Ascents gift certificates. To reserve a space the deposit is $700.00 and balances are due 90 days prior to departure. Unpaid balances can result in forfeiture of trip.
What is your cancellation policy? What is your refund policy?
Note: Alpine Ascents International highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Alpine Ascents International must adhere to a stringent refund policy.
- Each deposit, regardless of amount, includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee.
- Full refunds, less registration fee, will be provided 90-days or more prior to course, trek and/or expedition date.
- 50% refunds will be provided 60-89 days prior to course, trek and/or expedition date.
- No refunds will be provided 59-days prior to course, trek and/or expedition date.
- All refund requests must be made in writing and be received in our office within the 90-day period, as stated above.
- All balances are due 90 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
- Participants whose balances are not received by the 90-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their place on the expedition.
Note: Alpine Ascents reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible.
What happens if I need to leave the expedition early?
As our Mongolia climb travels to multiple locations, early departure may be difficult. If a climber needs to depart early our guides will assist in obtaining the necessary transportation and reservations to get you home as quickly as possible. We also have local Mongolian staff at our disposal for assistance.