Volcanoes of Mexico
Climbing/Mountaineering in Mexico with Alpine Ascents International
Highlights
- Summit two ancient volcanoes in the heart of Mexico
- Reward yourself with fantastic panoramic views from this gorgeous location
- A great expedition for the advanced beginner/intermediate climber
Full Description
Summit two impressive volcanoes on this exhilarating climbing adventure in Mexico.
In the heart of Mexico, about 800 miles south of the United States border, rise the third and seventh highest mountains in North America. El Pico de Orizaba (also known as Chitlalcotepetl 18,850ft.) and Iztaccihuatl ("Izta" 17,343ft.) rise impressively above the central plateau. Each fall we attempt to summit these two volcanoes. These two ascents are by far the most attractive climbs in Mexico. Alpine Ascents' expedition provides a fantastically rich experience for the advanced beginner/intermediate climber. What continually makes these Mexican volcanoes so attractive is the relatively small cost it requires to participate in a successful international high altitude expedition.
Our expedition lasts nine days during which we will attempt to summit these ancient peaks. In fact the mountains date back 10 million years, while their present shape can be dated at 2.5 million years. They provide a good introduction to high altitude mountaineering. For those interested in high altitude challenges, climbing the volcanoes of Mexico provide an excellent opportunity to begin developing the experience and skill necessary to succeed in the world's highest mountains. Successful ascents will provide the climber with a strong sense of their individual ability to handle altitude. They are also a wonderful destination in their own right.
Iztaccihuatl is crowned with snow and ice which form small glaciers at the higher elevations. There are relatively few crevasses to be found. For our summit attempt we will depart by 2:00am, enabling us to be high on the mountain by sunrise. Additionally this will provide extra hours at the higher elevations to ensure a gradual safe ascent. Izta is known in Aztec mythology as the "sleeping lady." When we speak of Izta we use body terms to describe parts of the mountain: la caballera - the hair, la caveza - the head, la orega, the ear, etc. Izta poses a challenging climb with many false summits on the approach.
After completing Izta we will take one day to rest and regroup before we advance to our second objective, El Pico de Orizaba. Orizaba stands as North America's third highest summit. It is an eroded volcano which still retains most of its symmetrical shape. While the summit is heavily glaciated, these glaciers have very few crevasses, enabling the beginning climber to develop skills and encounter only relatively few danger spots. Because of its great height, it provides a wonderful first experience with high altitude along with fantastic panoramic views.
Those wishing to participate in this trip must posses basic mountaineering skills. These peaks, along with most other high altitude mountains in the world, lack suitable low altitude areas to practice skills. Please contact Alpine Ascents International's office for consultation.
The Legend of Popo and Izta This traditional story is well known throughout the Puebla regions and is quite famous throughout all of Mexico. As the legend goes, while Popo, the Smoking Warrior was at war the emperor's beautiful daughter, Izta, died of heartache. When he returned and learned of her death he built two mountains. On one he laid her body and on the other he stood holding a funeral torch. Some days it still appears as if Izta is stretched on her back while the steam of Popo watches over her. And given its recent activity, many are reluctant to forego the romantic imagery of this great "Smoking Mountain".
Includes:
- All in-country transportation
- Hotels accommodations
- All group camp supplies, such as tents, stoves, etc.
- All group climbing gear
- All meals while climbing
- All hut fees, park fees and permit
Excludes:
- $25 wire transfer fee (if applicable)
- International round-trip airfare USA-Mexico
- Meals in Mexico City, Amecameca (and Tlamacas)
- Personal gear
- Excess baggage charges and airport taxes
- Personal items
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine Ascents
Day by Day Itinerary
Day 1
Flight to Mexico City, early afternoon arrival (not evening): After arrival we spend the evening visiting Mexico City's central square which includes the Metropolitan Cathedral and various federal buildings. We have a nice dinner near the square and spend the night in Mexico City where we prepare for our first climb. We also have a thorough equipment check and orientation including discussion of Leave No Trace practices.
Day 2
Today we travel by 4X4 to the small town of Amecameca (8,200ft). Situated in the highlands, Amecameca rests at the base of Volcanoes National Park along the foothills of the mountains. We have lunch and spend part of the afternoon enjoying this beautiful traditional Puebla town. The people in this region are known for their warmth and hospitality. The marketplace is filled with foods and spices indigenous to the area while the surrounding countryside is covered by rich vegetation. After final preparations, we drive to La Joya (12,200ft.) our base camp for our first objective, Iztaccihuatl, and overnight in tents during this first phase of acclimatization.
Day 3
We actively begin our acclimatization today by climbing to the Las Cruces hut on the normal route at just over 14,000ft. and then returning to spend the night once again at La Joya. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and prepare to move to our high camp.
Day 4
We break camp, load our packs, and slowly climb above 15,000 ft. where we establish a high camp and prepare for our summit bid and early morning summit departure.
Day 5
We depart for the summit of Iztaccihuatl (Sleeping Lady) in the pre-dawn hours via the Ayaloco Glacier. On clear mornings, the sunrise has proved to be exquisite and finds us climbing high on the mountain. We don crampons and ice axe for the upper regions of the volcano where we encounter an easy rock ridge, navigate across ice cliffs and finally traverse into a couloir just before our final push to the summit. Viewing the terrain it is easy to visualize the geologic cataclysms which created these giant mountains and look across to Popo keeping watch over the sleeping lady. By late afternoon, we return to La Joya and drive to Puebla for a much deserved rest, showers, and a good night's sleep.
Day 6
We take a rest day in the colonial town of Puebla and visit the local market, shops and cultural sites such as churches and other prominent buildings in the town. We can do some laundry at our hotel and relax by the pool while we organize equipment and make preparations for the early morning wake up and following days jorney to Orizaba
Day 7
Our second objective is Mexico's highest mountain, known as Citlalcotepetl or El Pico de Orizaba. (Mountain of the Star) At 18,850', it stands almost 1,000' higher than legendary Popo. We drive to Tlachichuca where we meet our outfitter and load our gear from transport vans into rugged 4x4's for the drive to our base camp at Piedra Grande (14,000ft), the lower slopes of Orizaba, where we spend the night.
Day 8
We pack up our camp and move to 16,000 ft. furthering our acclimatization and putting us in a better position for a successful summit attempt. We set high camp and prepare ourselves for an early morning departure for the summit. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and preparing for tomorrow's climb.
Day 9
Our ascent of Orizaba is similar to Izta, we begin before dawn to take advantage of optimum snow conditions and provide ample time to complete the climb before dark. En route we climb through a rock ravine, make a moderate roped ascent and traverse a series of crevasses. On the final stretch we maneuver the ridge along the crater’s edge. From the summit, we scan the Gulf of Mexico to the east and the central plateau to the west. We return to Mexico City and spend the night
Day 10
Depart for USA
About The Operator:
Alpine Ascents International
Headquarters:
Seattle, WA
A Brief History
Founder Todd Burleson has traveled the globe incessantly (from 8 Everest expeditions and the 7 summits, to Greenland, Mongolia and Iran) not only for his love of guiding but his never-ending pursuit of perfecting the Alpine Ascents approach. In 1986 there wasn't much of a business model for international guiding, but making a living at something you love has its merits. While Todd's proficiency in climbing was well regarded, he had a propensity for not only guiding and teaching, but looking at mountains as to how they might be successfully and safely guided (routes, camps, guide ratios, supplies and itineraries). From our early successes on Himalayan Peaks, this approach soon took hold on mountains around the world. Willi Prittie joined on with Todd and added his relentless pursuit of perfection and joy of the mountains to the zeitgeist of Alpine Ascents. This unique combination snowballed into some of the finest logistics, training and guiding in the industry.
With this recipe, Todd and Willi began sculpting a reputation - as a climber's outfitter. This included Willi maniacally developing the Alpine Ascents Mountaineering School, with the theme that any graduate should possess enough safety skills to call themselves a climber. Enter Gordon Janow who brought his eclectic background of writing, business and many years of traveling through Asia to galvanize Alpine Ascents as a business and mind set. This led to other strategic and opportune partnerships with old climbing friends such as Vernon Tejas, Peter Athans, and Jose Luis Peralvo, as well as recruiting, developing and training a host of younger guides that eventually became the core of the Alpine Ascents guiding staff. The office staff, not to be outdone, put the expertise of Matt Lepisto and Kristine Kitayama, and more recently Brent LaDoux, Alayna Cullen, Garrett Madison and Savannah Klunder, along with Todd and Gordon to the task of organizing and creating all that manifests the visions of guides and climbers alike. Most of the original members are with us today, keeping it a jovial and enthusiastic (bordering on obsessive) team.
Alpine Ascents International Today
Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community and operates what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience, not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. We maintain our ongoing process of multi-leveled and critical evaluation for each expedition. Innovations like daily weather reports, established season-long base camps, environmental pioneering, and operating our trips with small climber-to-guide ratios led by Alpine Ascents guides are just some of the factors that keep us in the forefront. Our guides are the primary reason that Alpine Ascents has built such a unique reputation. Many of our guides have been with us for most of their careers and have had the opportunity to participate in a wealth of climbs and programs. Our guides are generally not seasonal employees, who teach a few courses and head back to "other lives", but are dedicated and committed to a life of climbing.
Along with these elements, our commitment to the environment and ethical global business practices make Alpine Ascents the most respected and well-rounded mountain guiding company in the industry. Alpine Ascents is proud to be one of a small minority of companies authorized to guide on Denali, Mt. Rainier and throughout Washington's Cascades.
Program Philosophy ~ Mission Statement
Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally-conscious mountaineers and offering courses and expeditions of unsurpassed quality throughout the world. Our business practices stress ethical and culturally aware travel.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the skill level of this climb?
Climbers should have successfully completed our 6-Day Training course, 8-Day, 12-Day, 13-Day or have equivalent skills and experience. Those who had a strong performance on a 3-Day Baker or Rainier climb may also join. They must have basic knowledge of progression on snow and ice, self arrest, crevasse rescue and glacier travel. Snow and ice slopes to be dealt with are moderate (up to 45 degrees). The requirements are also based on our desire to have similarly skilled team members.
What is the physical conditioning for this climb?
Being in very good physical condition is highly recommended.
Who is the guiding team composed of (How many guides? Climber to guide ratio?)
An American guide accompanied by local guides leads the trip. The ratio is typically 3:1.
What is the best season to climb/which dates will have the most chance for success?
October and November are excellent times to climb.
How many climbers are on this expedition?
This trip usually has 6-8 climbers.
Will I be sharing a tent or lodging with other climbers?
On the climb you will be sharing expedition tents. You will share rooms on this expedition in town but you can pay a higher fee for single rooms. Contact our office for information on single room supplements.
How much will my pack weigh?
40 lbs.
How does your gear rental system work?
All rental gear will be mailed to the climber prior to the climb. Climbers are expected to clean all rental gear. Those requesting rental gear must submit an expedition rental form with payment by fax or mail. Return gear to us by mail following the expedition.
How is drinking water treated?
Water is either boiled or treated with a water purification solution like iodine or a chlorine.
What will the meals on the expedition be like?
Time spent in town you may enjoy authentic Mexican food and while on the mountain dinner foods like pasta and rice are served. Breakfasts consist of nutritious hot or cold cereals.
Can I bring some food from home?
You may bring power bars, Gu, or similar high energy foods. All meals will be provided on this climb.
Are there any innoculation requirements?
Not at this time.
What is the best air route to my destination?
Detailed flight information will be sent upon registration.
Where do I meet my guides?
Your guide or an Alpine Ascents representative will meet you at the airport. Look for a large Alpine Ascents sign.
What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra night lodging? Is there a single room option for this expedition?
We are happy to make arrangements such as personalized tours, extra hotels rooms, airport pick ups and arrange for private rooms. Please indicate that you would like a private room on your application and we will contact you with information on single room supplement costs.
Are there any entry or Visa requirements?
Not at this time.
Is there any communication while we are on the mountain?
In the cities and in hotels telephones are readily available. Our guide carries a cell phone while on the mountain.
Where can I get more information on history, books, and additional activities in the region?
Many books are available on Mexico's history.
Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?
You can always call our offices and a guide will contact you, generally about 1 month before your trip departure. 30 days prior to departure, we mail a list of other team members to you.
How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?
$500 should easily cover any extra expenses and tips. Most climbers prefer to bring about $1000 and have credit cards.
How much should I tip my guide and staff?
Guides are permitted to accept and greatly appreciate tips. Contact our office for specific guidelines for your trip.
When is the money due for this expedition? What kind of payment do you except?
We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express, personal checks and Alpine Ascents gift certificates. To reserve a space the deposit is $500 balances are due 90 days prior to departure. Unpaid balances can result in forfeiture of place on trip.
What is your cancellation policy? What is your refund policy?
Note: Alpine Ascents International highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all programs.
Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Alpine Ascents International must adhere to a stringent refund policy. Specific brochure cancellation and refund policies may supercede those enumerated below.
- Each deposit, regardless of amount, includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee.
- All Expedition balances are due 90 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
- Full refunds, less registration fee, will be provided 90-days or more prior to departure date.
- 50% refunds will be provided 60-89 days prior to departure date.
- No refunds will be provided 59-days prior to departure date.
- Participants whose balances are not received by the 90-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their place on the expedition.
All refund requests must be made in writing and be received in our office within the 90-day period, as stated above.
What happens if I need to leave the expedition early?
This climb takes us to different locations, early departure may be difficult. If a climber needs to leave early our guides will assist in obtaining the necessary transportation to get you home as quickly as possible.